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ISSUE 650
LAWN REHAB WITH GRASS SEED If your lawn has been looking less than ideal, the best time to perform lawn rehab is either in the spring or fall when we can take full advantage of any moisture we might receive coupled with the cooler temperatures. Planting grass seed is an easy way to bring your lawn back from the dead and a great way to treat bare spots around your lawn. Many of us will have lawn rehab on our to-do lists this year and if Mother Nature feels like lending a hand with watering than we should all welcome it, even beg for it! Cool season grasses like fescue, ryegrass or bluegrass can be seeded anywhere from March through September and with any luck this spring will be moisture rich. These grasses grow better in the cooler weather of both spring and fall while warm season grasses like buffalograss or blue grama grow better in the summer. This being said warm-season grasses can be successfully planted between April and July and like any seed will need consistent moisture to germinate. Because warm season grasses tend to go dormant in cooler weather they are not generally recommended for higher altitudes by themselves, but because of their tolerance to heat and drought many homeowners choose to plant a mixture of both cool and warm season grasses to green-up natural and non-irrigated areas. Occasional rehab may be needed because of prolonged drought, pests, wildlife damage, increased shade or just plain neglect. Unfortunately, I’m guilty of the last one. Lawn maintenance has not been on my top priority list! Good thing it’s a fairly easy fix. Start by either aerating or at least giving the area a very good raking, removing thatch and dead grass and bringing the soil to the surface. After applying the seed using a spreader, you might want to consider using pelletized straw mulch to help keep in the moisture and avoid losing seed to our heavy winds. You can also apply a starter fertilizer which is usually high in both nitrogen and phosphorus. For the first three to four weeks you will need to keep the seed moist until the grass is well established. So with a little planning and maybe a little help from Mother Nature we might be able to start checking off our summer to-do list before summer even starts and spend more time enjoying our yard instead! ISSUE 652
THE BENEFITS OF GROWING TOMATOES IN COLORADO Did you know that in warmer climates tomatoes will stop producing because it is too hot? That, as I’m sure you already know, is not a problem we have here. But it is important to note that every climate has its perks and every climate has its problems. One perk for Colorado is that you won’t run into it being too hot for your tomatoes to produce. Our short season on the other hand, while great for cool crops like lettuce, can be a problem for tomatoes. Tomatoes are not fans of frost, and the cool night-time temperatures interfere with pollen formation and fruit ripening. The good news, I think, is that it is easier to create a warmer environment than to drag an air conditioner into your garden. There are several tips that make growing tomatoes, and even more importantly, harvesting tomatoes in Colorado very doable. First of all choose the quickest maturing varieties of tomatoes. 55-75 days is preferred because ripening slows when temperatures drop. Determinate varieties of tomatoes are good choices for shorter growing seasons because they do most of their growing before fruit set and they tend to mature early. They are also great choices for containers and small gardens. Possibly topping the importance of what kind of tomato you choose is where you put your tomato. Tomatoes need plenty of sun and warmth. Choose an area that gets at least seven hours of sun. Planting near masonry or boulders creates a microclimate because the boulders will absorb heat and release it at night, keeping your plants warm. Many varieties will not set fruit until night time temperatures have reached 55 degrees. Using either a simple hoop house or water tubes are an inexpensive and effective way to keep the night-time temperatures high enough for your tomatoes to produce. This can extend your season on both sides considerably. Every climate has its benefits when it comes to growing, but that doesn’t mean the tomato is always greener on the other side. They all start green and if you need to harvest a green tomato to save it from the frost they still ripen indoors! ISSUE 654
PLANTING YOUR OWN INSECT REPELLENTS Just in case you needed another reason to plant herbs, I’ve got a really good one. It’s not because they are wonderful to cook with, or make tea with, or even because of their amazing health benefits. It’s because if you plant herbs along with your other flowers and vegetables they will help fight off many unwanted pests! I love anything that achieves more than one purpose. Even better is having something that has many uses and is constantly rejuvenating itself! In addition to having insect repelling qualities, many herbs are also planted for their flowers. Herbs like marigolds are avoided by deer, repel rabbits, and are also effective at repelling nematodes and white fly. Nasturtiums actually trap aphids as well as keep away white flies and cucumber beetles. Nasturtiums also attract many beneficial predatory insects that kill harmful insects in your garden. Chives are another one that has a really pretty bloom, is great for cooking and it repels aphids and carrot rust fly. Many of the same herbs used for cooking are also great at deterring pests. Garlic repels aphids, root maggot, white flies, and vampires (so I’m told). Both Oregano and Sage repel the cabbage moth. Cilantro, as well as making great salsa, repels aphids, potato beetles and spider mites and Dill attracts predatory wasps that eat caterpillars. Pennyroyal and Spearmint are both your official ‘Ant B-Gone’ herbs and the Colorado potato beetle can be repelled by Flax and Horseradish. Those slimy slugs and snails can be kept away with Rosemary. And while eating a salad Caprese, the Tomato Hornworm (yuck!) is repelled by Basil (Yum!). The wider the varieties of herbs you plant, the wider the variety of pests they will help keep away. This is a great excuse to plant twice as many herbs this year! And it certainly won’t hurt your cooking either! ISSUE 655
VEGETABLE CONTAINER GARDENING Do you have a small yard? Do you like to start gardening early in the season, long before the chance of frost is gone? Are critters enjoying your harvests before you get to? Or maybe your soil is still a work in process. Any one of these reasons, among others, can lead you to want to try growing your vegetables in containers. They don’t take up much space, they can be easy to move, and you have complete control over your soil. For me this has proven to be a great option, but it does come with its own unique set of challenges. The biggest challenge is your plants running out of space. With proper planning, however, this challenge can be avoided. If your plants roots outgrow their container than they will need to be repotted into a larger container in order to continue getting consistent water and nutrients. When growing vegetables, even more so than flowers, it is extremely important to keep them watered and fertilized on a regular basis. The flavor and texture of your vegetables will be greatly affected by low fertility and irregular watering. This can leave your vegetables tasting less sweet, bitter or tough. Just keep in mind that plants grown in containers will dry out faster and use up nutrients quicker. If you plan well your container vegetable garden will produce a delectable, sweet harvest, and not a tough and stringy one that you will actually voluntarily want to give to the deer. When deciding what you are going to grow, choose plant varieties that are compact and recommended for smaller space gardening. If you match appropriate varieties with appropriate sized containers you can grow tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, melon, lettuces and even carrots and onions right outside your front door. Keeping the plants needs in mind I’ve also grown beans, peas (on a tomato cage), potatoes, onions, strawberries and a variety of herbs in containers and even hanging baskets. A container planted with a combination of vegetables and Marigolds or Nasturtium help keep away pests and is beautiful all at the same time. Bottom line is that having a small yard or poor soil doesn’t have to keep you from reaping the rewards of growing your own vegetable garden. As Robert Brault so eloquently put it, “If you’ve never experienced the joy of accomplishing more than you can imagine, plant a garden.” ISSUE 656
COMPOSTING AROUND WILDLIFE Composting is something that just makes sense. Why pay to have valuable nutrients hauled away just to buy compost for your garden later? Adding your own compost back into your soil saves landfill space while improving your soil structure. If you have been putting off having a compost pile because you’re worried it will be like opening an all you can eat buffet for the local wildlife, just be mindful of what you add to it. Much like gardening, there is rarely a wrong way to make a compost pile. You just have to find what works well for you. I speak from experience when I say that randomly piling leaves and clippings from your spring garden clean-up in a corner of your yard, will eventually break down to a nice rich earthy soil. But even when strictly using yard waste and no kitchen scraps you will notice the occasional pocket gopher or rabbit helping themselves to a convenient snack, but a homemade or purchased compost bin can discourage these late night thieves. My pile did break down eventually. I have to admit though, that it was about a year my pile sat there. In truth, if you want your pile to break down faster there is kind of an art to it. The right balance of both green plant material (grass clippings, flower and vegetable parts, etc.) and dried plant material (dried leaves, twigs, straw, etc.) inside a compost bin, will break down much faster. Alternating equal layers will help your compost pile reach the right amount of nitrogen. Soil microbes that break down the plant material need nitrogen to feed on and the microbes also need steady amounts of moisture or they can dry up and die. So after every few layers you should water your pile and keep it lightly moist throughout the year. Keeping your pile too moist, on the other hand, will deprive your microbes of oxygen and your pile will give off a rotting smell the neighbors might not appreciate. And any strong smell could attract your most curious wildlife. Materials that readily compost include leaves, straw, green parts from disease free flowers and vegetables, and small amounts of twigs, weeds (free of seeds) and grass clippings. You might also choose to compost kitchen waste like egg shells, coffee grounds and vegetable scraps. Whether you do that or not might depend on the amount of curious wildlife you have around your home. It is not advised, however, to compost meat, bones or dairy products as they will attract raccoons, bears and rodents as well as every cat and dog in your neighborhood. After just a few months you can have a compost pile that has shrunk considerably and has a wonderful earthy smell, all without opening a late night kitchen at the same time. A mixture the environment, your gardens, and your wallet will surely appreciate! ISSUE 657
TOMATO GARDENING FOR SHORT GROWING SEASONS Did you know that in warmer climates tomatoes will stop producing because it is too hot?! That, if you didn’t already know, is not a problem we have here. But it is important to note that every climate has its issues. Our issues for Colorado are quite the opposite. Tomatoes are not fans of frost, and the cool night-time temperatures interfere with pollen formation and fruit ripening. The good news, I think, is that it is easier to create a warmer environment than to drag an air conditioner into your garden. While it’s not as easy as just having a tomato grow as a perennial there are several tips that make growing tomatoes, and even more importantly, harvesting tomatoes very doable! First of all choose the quickest maturing varieties of tomatoes. 55-75 days is preferred because ripening slows when temperatures drop. Determinate varieties of tomatoes are good choices for shorter growing seasons because they do most of their growing before fruit set and they tend to mature early. They are also great choices for containers and small gardens. Possibly topping the importance of what kind of tomato you choose is where you put your tomato. Tomatoes need plenty of sun and warmth. Choose an area that gets at least seven hours of sun and near masonry or boulders because they will absorb heat and release it at night, keeping your plants warm. Many varieties will not set fruit until night time temperatures have reached 55 degrees. Building a simple hoop house from plastic and PVC pipe or using water tubes, like Wall O’ Water, is an inexpensive and effective way to keep your night-time temps high enough for your tomatoes to produce. This can extend your season on both sides considerably. Every climate has their issues when it comes to growing, but that doesn’t mean the tomato is always greener on the other side. They all start green and if you need to harvest the green tomatoes to save them from a frost you can still ripen them indoors! ISSUE 699
ONION SEEDS, SETS AND STARTS If onions are a regular staple in your kitchen, then you might be considering them as an addition to your vegetable garden this spring. After all what good is a vegetable garden if you’re not growing the things you buy the most? If you’re worried you won’t be able to eat fifty onions in one season simply allow them dry completely after harvesting and then store them in a cool dark basement using pantyhose with knots tied between each onion. This way you’ll have months to use up your harvest. The best part is that you can cross onions off your grocery list, but don’t forget to replace it with pantyhose. Don’t worry guys if I see you at the grocery buying pantyhose I won’t judge. Onions can be ordered from seed catalogs or found at your local garden center and you can find them in three different forms. They can be started from seed, from sets or from starts also called transplants. For our short season I recommend either starting from sets or transplants. Onion sets will come in a bag and look like a bunch of mini onions. They’re great because these are second year onions and you can plant them earlier than transplants. All of the hard work has been done for you. Generally many beginner onion growers have better success with sets. Onion transplants on the other hand are 8 to 10 week old onion plants. They already have green tops and after they’re planted will begin to form a bulb. The real benefit to transplants is that they usually come in many varieties unlike sets that come in just yellow, white or purple. This allows you to pick varieties based on how well they store or whether they are day neutral, which is best for our climate. Both sets and transplants will require moist, well-drained soil. Onions are heavy feeders so prepare your soil with bone meal and follow with regular feedings. Different gardeners swear by different techniques. As usual it comes down to what works best for you. So if you’re new to onion gardening give both sets and transplants a try. If you end up with onion overload than simply thin your onions out and use the tops as green onions! ISSUE 715
COMPOSTING YARD WASTE Composting yard waste can be a very practical thing to do. After all it recycles nutrients back into your yard and compost is important for good soil structure. Not only is it a tremendous space saver it is also a money saver! You’ll save money not having it hauled away and you’ll save money not having to buy as much compost and mulch later in the year. Often the biggest thing that keeps people from composting is that they simply don’t know how. Composting is easy if you follow a few basic rules. To create a successful compost pile you want to alternate layers of dried plant material with layers of green plant material. Layers 6 – 8” deep will help your compost pile reach the right amount of nitrogen. Microbes break down the plant material and they need nitrogen to feed on. If green plant material is scarce then an application of blood meal or other fertilizer high in nitrogen is necessary. The microbes also need steady amounts of moisture or they can dry up and die so after every few layers water your pile and keep it lightly moist throughout the year. Keeping your pile too moist, on the other hand, will deprive your microbes of oxygen and your pile will give off a rotting smell the neighbors might not appreciate. So strive for damp not sopping wet and turn your pile occasionally to achieve even moisture and temperature. To effectively kill most plant diseases your compost pile needs to reach a temperature of 122 degrees and for the microbes to continue their hard work it’s ideal for temperatures to be between 70 and 140 degrees. This is obviously achieved much faster in the summer months. Don’t worry it’s not necessary to drag our compost pile into the living room in the winter to keep it warm; it will just take a bit longer to produce nice compost. Readily composted materials include leaves, straw, green parts from flowers and vegetables, and small amounts of twigs, weeds and grass clippings. Be careful though not to add too much plant material treated with weed killer as this will lengthen the time it will take to break down. Many people also choose to compost kitchen wastes like egg shells, coffee grounds and vegetable scraps, but for some people this can present a problem with bears or raccoons. It is not advised to compost meat, bones or dairy products. For those who would like to compost livestock manure keep in mind the potential hazard of E. coli on food gardens. If you intend to use composted manure for a food garden than a 2 to 4 month curing period after its composted is recommended. After 1 to 2 months in the summer and a bit longer in the cooler months you will have a compost pile that has shrunk considerably and has a wonderful earthy smell! A mix your gardens and your wallet will surely appreciate! ISSUE 717
AN EVER BLOOMING GARDEN Summer is the season for your perennial garden to flourish! So many plants are blooming this time of year and it’s a great time to take a look at your garden and note any time during the season that you were without blooms. As you add to your garden every year you can create an ever blooming garden! Something blooming every week of the season! All you have to do is give yourself some time each week and stop and smell the flowers. Now that we have finally been getting some much deserved moisture it is a perfect time to plant perennials. While you can plant anytime during the growing season, it's ideal if you give your plant time to get established before winter. Spring has its benefits as a planting time, but so does late summer and fall. The main reason being is that the ground is nice and warm encouraging root growth, unlike the Spring. So what's blooming this week? Daylilies are blooming all over town and this wonderful plant offers a huge variety of colors and bloom times. Some varieties such as 'Stello de Oro' or 'Happy Returns' bloom several times during the summer while others like 'Fairy Tale Pink' save up for a grand show of colorful blossoms from July thru August. Daylilies are tried and true in our area too. They are cold hardy and once established, very drought tolerant. They run anywhere from 6” to 48” in height and spread 12” to 36”. Another plant blooming right now is called Red Birds in a Tree. This unique plant’s flowers actually look like red birds sitting in a tree! It gets 36” tall and 18” wide, tolerates full to part sun, and is cold hardy up to 8000 feet. It is suitable for xeriscapes and often blooms from spring to frost attracting birds, butterflies and bees. Red Birds in a tree or Scrophularia macrantha is worth trying so you can enjoy this beautiful and unique plant and maybe add some color to a spot in need. There are many other beautiful perennials blooming right now! So note any spots that need a color boost, and then take a drive, go for a walk or check out your neighbors garden for the color you may be missing. ISSUE 728
FALL AND WINTER WATERING I don’t have to convince anyone that this year has been hard on our plants. It was a dry winter, followed by a dry spring and a very hot and dry summer. Now that fall is here and we have been getting a few wonderful rainy days we’re finally off the hook for watering. Right? Wrong. Especially after a drought, watering correctly during the fall and winter is absolutely crucial to the health of our plants and will determine how well they perform the following spring. Of course we all have our fingers crossed that this winter will be a wet one! Just in case it’s not though, let’s ensure that they are strong and healthy going into dormancy. Our summer was dry and most of us were on water restrictions. So what does that mean for the health of our trees and shrubs? Damage from drought is often unnoticeable until many months later and right now many trees and shrubs are developing their buds for next year. That is why fall is just as an important time to keep a good watering schedule as anytime in the spring or summer. Now that it’s October we can certainly cut down on watering, but it is recommended to water one to two times a month from October thru March. For large established trees this means ten gallons per inch in diameter of the trunk each time you water. It’s best to water at least a few feet from the trunk and out to the farthest branch line or drip line and water like this in four different spots around your tree to provide an even watering. You can adjust this amount according to any moisture we might get. We will get! Keeping fingers crossed. Apply five gallons of water for small shrubs and eighteen gallons for large shrubs (over 6’). Any newly planted trees and shrubs should be watered more frequently, like three times a month. Perennials will also benefit from winter watering. In addition to watering just for the sake of keeping our plants hydrated it helps prevent the ground from freezing and thawing and the problems that can create. That’s not so bad is it? If in the past you didn’t know the importance of fall and winter watering you will be pleased at the difference this makes in your plants vitality and survival! So on those days where the temperature is above 45 degrees and there’s no snow on the ground try to set a mental reminder to water! ISSUE 729
MULCHING OUR GARDEN Cooler weather is on the way and it won’t be long before our gardens are asleep for the winter and their roots are hibernating amongst frozen soil. So when should we mulch? Should we mulch before the soil freezes or after the soil freezes? How deep should we mulch? Is it best to use organic or inorganic mulch? Of course like most things it depends on what your goal is. Once you understand the different uses for each kind of mulch you can determine which kind is best for you. All of your mulching options can be found in two categories. There are organic mulches like wood, straw, leaves, and grass clippings. Or there are inorganic mulches like gravel, fabric, or rock. If you’re looking for mulch that won’t blow away and have no reason to improve your soil, than using one or a combination of inorganic mulches might make the most sense. This is also a great choice if you’re looking to add mulch for aesthetic purposes as rock and gravel come in a wide variety of colors and sizes. If instead you are looking to improve your soil structure than organic mulch is best. It will break down over time and add nutrients to your soil. Either way whether organic or inorganic mulch is used there are many benefits to mulching before winter. It will greatly reduce evaporation and control soil temperature fluctuations from freezing and thawing, and protect shallow rooted plants from frost damage. Often times it makes sense to use mulch from around our home like grass clippings, seed hulls, or leaves. These are not only a free option, but can be easily turned into the ground in the spring. When considering mulching options from around your home keep in mind that mulch should not compact easily and should allow for good air and water movement. When you’ve chosen your mulch then you can apply it at a depth of three to four inches. Remember that it is best to keep any kind of mulch at least six inches from the base of woody plants to help prevent rotting and/or rodent damage. Mulch can be applied anytime during the year. Just remember that if you apply the mulch earlier it will keep the soil warmer for longer and if you apply after the ground freezes it will help delay plants like bulbs from leafing out too early. There are many benefits to mulching. In fact it is almost a necessity for our plants to survive our windy and often dry winters. So be sure to tuck in your plants for the winter and know that they are protected for a long sleep. ISSUE 730
THE COLORS OF AUTUMN This time of year not everyone’s thoughts are on gardening. Well, actually our thoughts always are, but that’s just an occupational hazard! For everyone else you may still be planting bulbs and doing fall clean up, but gardening probably isn’t on the forefront of your mind like it often is in the spring and summer. What might be on your mind however, at least when you walk outside, is just how beautiful our fall landscape is. The deep oranges, reds, purple and gold blend and pop. Even the greens and blues look deeper and more vibrant. So even though you may not be in full blown planting mode right now, later in the spring when you are, you might ask; what was that deep red tree I saw all over town in the fall? Or what was that incredible purple or vibrant orange that paired so well with that Blue Spruce? I actually prefer planting in the fall, but the selection is usually better in the spring. Either way it might be worth doing a little homework now to find out the names of the ones you want in your own yard. After all as Albert Camus put it “autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” The cooler nights and shorter days signal the plants to stop producing chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is what makes the leaves green. After the production of chlorophyll slows then other pigments already in the leaves become visible. That is how we get these awesome transformations of color. One way you might find out what that tree, shrub or perennial is that you just can’t stop marveling at is to take a leaf that has already fallen to have it identified. Or if it’s on someone else’s property ask if you can pick one and maybe the owner could tell you themselves what it is. You could also go into some local nurseries and see what they have that’s turning colors right now. Then you have the name right there on the tag for you. Another option would be the good old internet. A potential problem with this option is you may fall in love with a beautiful tree just to find out it doesn’t grow here! No reason to be disappointed though! Obviously Colorado trees can hold their own when it comes to fall color. Some popular choices that you might be seeing right now include the Autumn Blaze Maple, this one and varieties closely related are often the brilliant eye catching red we see around town. Another is the Autumn Purple Ash; this tree becomes a mixture of everything from orange-red to purple. This one is my personal favorite. And the intense gold we see might be one of many varieties of Green Ash or, of course, our beloved Aspen. As far as shrubs go I’m often asked about Burning Bush, its name kind of gives the color away! Personally I am very fond of the glossy orange-red that Aronia turns this time of year. The list of course goes on and on but I think I will be running out of room soon! So take this as a great excuse to take an even deeper look at the beautiful trees and shrubs that already catch your eye when you drive by. Then by next year they can catch your eye in your own yard. ISSUE 731
FALL IS FOR FUNGUS GNATS Have you noticed them? They're pretty hard to ignore, considering they seem to want to fly directly into your eyeball when you're reading a book or having a conversation with someone. So if you have them around your home you'll know it. Fungus gnats are harmless enough. They don't bite you or your plants and their adult lives only last a whopping ten days, but they can be annoying especially in large numbers. And no it's not your imagination that they do seem to appear out of nowhere this time of year. This is because of several reasons. All of those plants you brought inside before a frost killed them are one reason. Chances are fungus gnats had already been in them but you hadn't noticed them when they were outside. Then the warmer temperature inside your home increases breeding. Yay! You're a proud parent of hundreds of fungus gnat larvae! Another factor is that both the plants you brought inside and the plants that have been inside have slowed their growth due to the shorter days and cooler nights. This causes your soil to stay moist for much longer which creates the perfect breeding ground for fungus gnats seeing as they feed on fungi, algae and decaying roots. In fact the first and most effective way to control fungus gnats is by letting your plants go lightly dry between watering. I've got to stress this one. It will make the biggest difference the fastest. If you've already adjusted your watering and there hasn't been a noticeable improvement consider changing the soil in your plants. If it is fairly old soil it could be breaking down and essentially turning into gnat food. At least remove the top two to three inches of soil since this is where most larvae will be found. Another solution I've seen used is yellow sticky traps. Yes they're ugly but the gnats are attracted to the yellow and get stuck so this reduces the amount of eggs being laid. Then as a last resort there are insecticides that might help, but try both reducing your watering and replacing the top layer of soil in your plants first. I have found this is by far the most effective way of solving a fungus gnat problem. Again, fungus gnats aren't really harmful to you or your plants. Maybe you like the constant companionship of a Fungus Gnat flying up your nose while you're eating your lunch, but just in case you don't rest assured that these few steps will at least greatly reduce the amount of time you play "clap smash the gnat" around your home. ISSUE 733
GROWING HERBS INDOORS There is absolutely nothing like having fresh herbs on hand to cook with. They can really make a dish special. Like fresh basil in a caprice salad or fresh thyme in chicken noodle soup! But buying fresh herbs at the store every time you need them can sure add up and growing your own can prove to be equally frustrating if your herbs aren’t happy. If you know how to make them happy however, you can have fresh herbs on hand anytime you need them and save a little money too. The first and most critical tip is providing the right light. Herbs need a substantial amount of light. At least eight hours of bright light is ideal, preferably from a south facing window. If your herbs start to look stretched out or their leaves are pale or falling off than you probably need to find a brighter spot. After all, what good is growing herbs if there aren’t any leaves to cook with? The other important, very important, factor is water. Isn’t it always? Make sure that you plant in a quality potting soil and use a pot with very good drainage. Yellowing leaves is often a sign that your herbs are getting too much water or aren’t receiving enough drainage. Finally, our dry winter air, especially in our homes, can also make it difficult for our herbs to flourish. Try setting your herbs on top of a tray full of pebbles and fill it with water. That way they can benefit from some humidity. That’s it! These three things really can make a huge difference in how your herbs perform! You can find a variety of fun herbs to try at your local garden center as plants or seed. Many perennial herbs like thyme, chives or mint can be divided in the fall and brought indoors. Many annual herbs can also be brought in for the winter like rosemary, basil, or pineapple sage. If you’ve never grown pineapple sage, try it! It smells amazing and you can make a really wonderful tea from its leaves. And if you notice after you’ve brought herbs indoors that they have acquired a few hitch hikers than spray them heavily with a mixture of soap and water. If you prefer a ready to use spray from your local garden center make sure it is organic and can be used on edibles. Aside from adding flavor to your favorite dishes herbs provide essential vitamins and minerals. Growing fresh herbs inside also provides your home with a fresh, warm feeling that only a living plant can bring. Pineapple Sage Tea
Bring water to boil and pour over ½ cup sage leaves Add lemon and honey to taste Steep for 20 minutes Bring mixture to boil once more and strain into tea cups ISSUE 734
HOLIDAY CACTUS Okay, I have a confession. I have a Christmas cactus addiction. Is it serious? Well, it might be. I love Christmas cactus, Thanksgiving cactus and Easter cactus. Their fuchsia like flower is stunning on a cold winter’s day. I call it an addiction because I can’t seem to stop myself from first buying any color I don’t already have, and then anytime a branch falls off I can’t throw it away. Instead I just can’t stop myself from rooting it in water, which will later be either added to one of my other plants or if there’s no room, than here comes number seventeen! That may not seem so bad except I have two kids and three dogs and so I end up with quite a few fallen branches. Oh well, there are worse things than having thirty tiny Holiday cactus spread around your home. One difference between the three holiday cacti, you might have already figured out, is their bloom time. They all bloom close to the holiday they’re named after and often at least one other time too. Schlumbergera truncate or Thanksgiving Cactus has pointed teeth on the stems while Schlumbergers x. buckleyi or Christmas Cactus has rounded tips and Hatiora gaertneri the Easter Cactus also has rounded tips but its stems are much more angular compared to the flat leaves of the Christmas Cactus and its flowers are more star shaped. They’re all native to the forests of Brazil where they grow as epiphytes in trees. All three types are true cacti, but they require more moderate watering. Water about once a week when the top inch of soil is on the dry side and fertilize at half strength. Blooming is a reaction to the change in hours of daylight. When you see buds start to form you can reduce the amount of water and stop fertilizing until after the blossoms have fallen for a much more vibrant color. They all do best in bright indirect light. If their dark green foliage starts to fade or becomes shriveled looking than it needs to be moved to a cooler spot. Now you can dazzle your friends and family with your ability to tell the difference between all the holiday cacti! Hey! What’s a better hostess gift for your holiday parties than the corresponding holiday cactus? ISSUE 735
FORCING BULBS How to force bulbs to do your laundry. Yeah! That would be something wouldn't it? No we're just going to force them to grace our homes with their beautiful blooms and fragrance. That's nice too. You can force any kind of bulb but forcing Paperwhites is by far the simplest. Paperwhites don't require a cooling period. If you decide to force other bulbs like Hyacinth, Crocus or Tulips they need to be chilled for a time specific to each plant which is usually between six and eight weeks. You can adjust the times for the kind of bulbs you are forcing and then follow the same instructions on how to force Paperwhites. They make some beautiful "forcing vases" specifically designed for forcing bulbs. These hold the bulbs and allow the roots to be seen reaching for the water while keeping your bulbs dry so they don't rot. They are beautiful as well as a great science lesson. You can also use any container that doesn't have a hole in the bottom. I've found some really cute squatty containers at the dollar store before. Next you can fill the container part way with either pebbles or potting soil and set the bulbs in pointed side up. Don't let your bulbs sit in water or they will rot! Let the water be available right under the bulb so the roots will grow into it. Place your bulbs in a cool place for the first couple of weeks and once the shoots are two to three inches tall you can move them to a brighter and warmer area. This will prevent them from becoming leggy and droopy. Shortly after that, another two to three weeks, and your house will be graced by the presence of those tiny beautiful white flowers and the strong love it or hate it aroma that accompanies them. It's really such an easy way to bring color into the house or a great gift to give others a little color in their homes! Start new bulbs every two weeks for a continuous color show. Happy holidays everyone! ISSUE 736
CARING FOR YOUR POINSETTIA They’ve really come up with some beautiful new Poinsettia colors. All shades of burgundy, white, peach and even multicolored Poinsettia like my favorite ‘Jingle Bells’ which has mottled red and white bracts, are now widely available. The original was a simple dark red and has been widely planted for centuries. The plant was prized by Aztecs who used the reddish bracts for dye and the latex, the white sap inside the stems, to counteract fever. In winter shortly after the Poinsettia’s natural booming period they used the Poinsettia in ceremonies to symbolize purity, blood and sacrifice. Later Franciscan priests used the Poinsettia to celebrate Christmas and represent the blood of Christ. Bright and indirect light will keep your Poinsettia going all the way through mid March. Water when the soil is dry to the touch being careful not to let it go too dry. Don’t allow your Poinsettia to sit in water as if they are over watered they are not very forgiving. Though most Poinsettias are tossed to the curb shortly after the holidays, it is possible to get your Poinsettia to bloom again before next year’s holiday season. Ugh. Did I already mention next year’s holidays? Anyways… After your Poinsettia has finished blooming, around mid March, you can prune back the bracts and start a fertilizing monthly with a basic fertilizer. Repot your plant into the next size container using a quality potting soil and prune regularly to encourage a well formed plant. Always leaving enough leaves so your plant can photosynthesize. And here comes the important part. STOP pruning in late August. In order for your Poinsettia to produce a good show it will need as much sunlight as possible during the day and a solid 14 hours of complete darkness starting October 1st. Even the smallest amount of light can halt the flowering process. Once the bracts begin to show color your Poinsettia becomes much less high maintenance. I really can’t imagine why anyone throws out their Poinsettia. We all have plenty of time to cater to the high maintenance needs of a plant, don’t we? Ok, seriously it can be fun and if you’re successful then you’ve earned some bragging rights among your friends! That makes it worth it! |
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