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Issue 159 - 11/15/04
DERMABRASION Microdermabrasion is another way to remove the outer layer of dull skin (the skin’s cells are reproduced every 28-30 days. As time goes by, they become sluggish and the process of exfoliation is not working as smoothly as it once did. For that reason, it is necessary to help it along.) Unlike the AHA’s that attack the glue that holds the cells together, Dermabrasion works directly on the cells themselves. The crystals used are strong enough to, not only work on the dead cells, but on the ones that aren’t 100% healthy either. As a result, healthier, smoother looking skin that has not been exposed to the natural elements of the environment, like wind, change in temperature, sun, poor diet,would be replaced. Small, superficial lines & wrinkles can be smoothed out. Discoloration & hyper-pigmentation can be evened out. Large pores can be diminished. Microdermabrasion is an alternative to chemical peels. Chemical peels are stronger than acid peels. Microdermabrasion uses aluminum oxidecrystals, magnesium and other crystals to give a thorough exfoliation while increasing circulation and stimulating collagen formation.There are a couple of ways to use those crystals, by machine and manual use. They are both effective as long as they use high quality, professional crystals. The price of each treatment, though, almostdoubles when using mechanical equipment. Issue 161 - 11/29/04
AGING What in the world is aging anyway? Let’s try to define aging without using any physical characteristics like wrinkles, sagging etc. That leaves us with one option: a scientific definition of aging that’s physiological. It may be biochemical, genetic or a combination of both. However we define it, somebody will find fault with it. To some, aging is a physiological process characterized by the slowing down of the body functions. Why it happens is unknown because, as Peter T. Pugliese, MD, says: “aging is a result of civilization, for wild animals do not age, they die.” SLOWING THE DOWNHILL SLIDE As we all know, everything tends to become run down if left alone: wood rots, metal rusts, food spoils etc. Fortunately we have repair systems to fix or better yet to prevent most of those problems. With our body it’s exactly the same. We can fix it, but the most important action we can take is prevention. Here are some ideas (none of them new) that Dr Pugliese and most of everybody else too, suggest avoiding.
What we should pursue:
Intelligence is inherent in humans, so use it! Issue 162 - 12/6/04
ANIMAL V.S. VEGETABLE-BASED COSMETICS & IT'S BY-PRODUCTS Let’s start with soap. It has always been as it’s been made today. Saturated fats form solid soap bars. Unsaturated fatty acids found in vegetable oils are used in liquid soaps. Todays soap bars typically contain 80-85% tallow, which comes from animal feat, (specifically from cattle ) and 15-20% coconut oil which is a vegetable fat. The addition of coconut oil produces better foaming products. The U.S. produces so much tallow (because of the high consumption of beef ) that exports about half as much as it produces. Most of the remaining tallow, is used here to make soaps, and that is one of the reasons why a bar of soap is so inexpensive. Can a similar product be manufacture from vegetable oil? Yes. But at twice the price. Glycerin is a by product of fatty acids found in tallow. It can also be a by product of vegetable oil and petroleum. Glycerin is used as a moisturizer in cosmetics, paint, tooth paste, food, tobacco… Oleic and stearic acids are derived from tallow fatty acids too. It is estimated that 90% of creams and lotions sold in the U.S. are based on a chemistry of stearic acid and bases of water and oils. Glyceril stearate is the second most popular by product used as an emulsifier. There are vegetable stearic & oleic acids available too. They are derived from oils coming from palm and coconut trees. Proteins are another fatty acid by product. Collagen, elastin, keratin, silk and placental proteins can be made from wheat and soybeans also. The bottom line on animal versus vegetable derived ingredients, is not only a choice that all of us as consumers have, but is knowing where the ingredients come from. And that’s the hard part because the manufacturers try to use a bit of both since both of them offer something that they want. Issue 163 - 12/13/04
AROMATHERAPY Aromatherapy, the art and science of using aromatics and essential oils for their therapeutic properties, has made a long journey from ancient cultures thousands of years ago to it’s present day popularity. Essential oils can be extracted from any part of a plant: flowers, leaves, roots, seeds, wood, bark, resin, or fruit skins. Essential oils can be absorbed by the skin. The active constituents and the beneficial properties of the essential oils are believed to travel and stay in the body for twenty minutes to twenty four hours and eventually get eliminated through perspiration. But the best way to enjoy and benefit from essential oils is through the primitive sense of smell. Anthropologist Lauren Van Der Post said “Scent…. Is not only biologically the oldest, but also the most evocative of all our senses”. THE BEST ESSENTIAL OILS FOR ALL SKIN TYPES ARE: Lavender, Geranium & Ylang-ylang FOR NORMAL – DRY – MATURE SKIN: Jasmine, Rose, Neroli, Chamomile & Frankincense FOR OILY AND PROBLEM SKIN: Lemon, Sage, Camphor, Balm & Bergamot ESSENTIAL OILS FOR USE WITH AROMA LAMPS OR DIFFUSSERS CALMING AND SEDATING: Geranium, Lavender, Mimosa, Balm, Honey Oil, Rose, Roman Chamomile & Neroli STIMULATING AND REFRESHING: Bergamot, Lemonverbena, Lemongrass, Mint, Myrtle, Juniper, Swiss Pine & Lime Issue 164 - 12/20/04
COMPLETE WELLNESS What Role Does A Day Spa/Salon Have In The Wellness Center? Over the past few years, spa owners have sensed that clients have different needs and wants when visiting a salon. Not only you still want great services and atmosphere, but you go to a spa to help eliminate stress too. To address that need, Spas are implementing relaxation techniques for you to shed your burdens, gain clarity and be rejuvenated, in more ways than one. According to Harvard Mind/Body Institute “between 60 – 90 % of all medical office visits in the U. S. are for stress related disorders.” Clients need mind, body and spirit wellness. Professionals in the field agree that by offering relaxation techniques such as Reike, massage, hot-cold stone treatments, facials, body work, yoga, and ayurveda can help a client “unwind and let go.” Also by incorporating complete hand and foot care instead of working on cuticles, nails and calluses only, can be an experience all on it’s own. Finally you need music that soothes your inner self. The right music with the right treatment done by the right professional along with the right atmosphere, can be the ticket you need to feel de-stressed and at peace with yourself and life in general. THE SKIN IS THE MOST ACCURATE REFLECTION OF A PERSONS HEALTH. Issue 165 - 12/27/04
ARE YOUR ACRYLIC NAILS SAFE? As you are reading this article, there still are salons that have no consideration for the health of your nails or for the recommendations of the F.D.A.s warnings against the use of a product called Methyl Methacrylate or MMA. MMA is a clear liquid with a powerful odor and very strong. Plexiglas (used as windows, one piece bathtubs and shower units just to name a few) is an example of it’s many good and diversified uses. Sadly enough though, it is also on the Special Health Hazard Substance List because it is Flammable and Reactive (as specified on the New Jersey Department of Health). If not used correctly, it can have many side effects on the human body.
Now that you know just a bit about MMA, let’s talk about nails. What has one to do with the other? When you wear artificial nails, you have them on for a few months at the time. To be cost effective, you don’t want them to break, lift or fall off, so you want the strongest ones available, or do you? The strongest ones will be glued with MMA which in the long run, not only will damage your nail bed, but could give you some of the side effects talked about earlier. Because MMA is a lot cheaper, some salons still use it to keep costs down and by doing so, they can do services at a lesser price than the rest of us can. Is your nail bed and your health in general worth the price? There are many other ways of wearing artificial nails that could be just as strong. The new acrylics, do not use MMA. Also, there are: Silks, Fiberglass, Gels,…All of them, if done properly, can give you the results you are seeking. Be aware that entering a salon having a very strong smell, it should be a dead giveaway that they are using the “bad products”. Do some investigative work: Visit some of the local salons in the Tri-Lakes area. Do the same in the Springs. You will find that most of the local ones and the medium-upper scale ones in the Springs or Denver area have absolutely no smell in them. Why wouldn’t we want to keep you as a client forever? Keep in mind: extremely strong odor, less than an hour for an application, drills used (by the way, the new regulations say you have to see a license & a special permit allowing drills, for each technician) and prices too good to be true. Those are just a few of the things you have to question. If the salon you are considering going to, meets those credentials, be very weary and ask a lot of questions. Issue 166 - 1/3/05
ENTHUSIASM What is it? Enthusiasm goes by many names: energy, excitement, joy, liveliness, pizzas, spirit, vitality, hope, optimism etc. It will show a spark in people’s eyes. It will show in peoples body movements and there will definitely be vibrancy when around people that are enthusiastic. On a personal level, it can affect your health, relationships and life enjoyment. Enthusiasm is born of delight, wonder, passion, curiosity and connection: connection to yourself, other people and to the mystery and majesty of life. Signs of enthusiastic people:
Issue 167 - 1/10/05
VITAMIN C Did you know... Vitamin C, besides being good for colds, has been proven to help erase joint pain, stiffness and swelling of osteoarthritis & rheumatoid arthritis; has helped lower the risk of heart attack and some cancers; has lowered the risk of developing cataracts and Alzheimer’s disease, etc. If it does so much when taken internally, what would happen if used topically? A revolution in skin care products! Vitamin C is the latest, most innovative ingredient in the industry today. Every company has incorporated it into their product lines because it is a major breakthrough in anti-aging and skin protection. Scientific research confirms that oral Vitamin C is known to facilitate collagen production in tissue cells. Also enhances vitamin E levels in the body, which contributes to anti-wrinkle benefits. Topically, it acts as an antioxidant to prevent harmful oxygen species from damaging skin cells. Research shows too that vitamin C reduces the amount of photo damage to the skin cells that UVA & UVB rays have caused. Visually, consumers are noticing differences in skin hydration levels & decrease in lines. Long term effects are still under study. But like with all products, you will find companies with very good products containing the “C” and some not as good, because it’s considered very volatile, it’s a big challenge to keep vitamin c stable after exposure to oxygen. Just be aware of what you buy. Issue 168 - 1/17/05
ENZYMES An Alternative to Microdermabrasion and Skin Peel In a process of self regeneration, human skin continually sheds it’s top layer of dead cells. The process is called exfoliation or peeling and it can be accelerated by treating the skin with an exfoliant agent. Other than acids ( glycolics ), Enzymes are the agents most widely used in skin care salons. An Enzyme peel is a surface exfoliant that removes the top layer of dead cells without wounding the skin. After this layer is removed, products applied to the skin, such as moisturizers, bio-effective creams, lotions, serums… will penetrate and be more effective. The Enzyme delivery system is most often delivered in the form of a masque, a water based paste spread on the skin. Enzyme peels improve all skin types : For dry skin :it removes dead cells and the pigmentation contained in them, improving texture and tone, softening and smoothing, It retexturizes flaky, scaly skin, improving it’s appearance. For oily problem skin: an enzyme exfoliation cleans pores and prevents the formation of whiteheads and cebaceous cysts. Enzymes versus Chemical peels Acid peels penetrate into the deeper layers, and are harsher. They act by irritating and wounding the cells. It will make a deep exfoliation of not only the dead cells but the unhealthy ones too. And providing a deeper exfoliation , there will be more dryness, flakiness and it could take longer to heal. Enzyme peels are mild and act on the upper layer slowly and gently. If the right Enzymes are used, they should work on dead cells only. Well formulated products contain soothing and anti-inflamatory ingredients. Enzyme peels are safe and relaxing and, if there should be any redness, the skin will go back to normal the next day. They can be effective on hands and body too. When done in a series of four or more, and performed in combination with other treatments, it’s benefits will be enhanced too. And remember that results are obtained on both ends of the skin type spectrum: dry-aging and oily-acneic conditions. Issue 169 - 1/24/05
EYE AREA PROBLEMS The skin around the eye area is much thinner and delicate than the rest of the skin. There are less oil and sweat glands to provide moisture, thus being the reason why it dries, dehydrates and has a tendency to wrinkle sooner. Some of the most common eye problems include: Puffiness: a puffy look is usually caused by edema. Edema is the presence of excess fluid in the subcutaneous spaces around the eye. It accumulates when one is lying down and slowly disappears upon standing up. Puffiness may be accentuate by allergies, poor blood circulation, crying and, in females, during the menstrual cycle. Bags: bagginess usually occurs as a result of aging which decreases muscle tone. A lot of times puffiness and bagginess are confused, you can tell the difference by seeing if the area is swollen and smooth (puffiness) or saggy and lumpy (bagginess). Dark circles: skin color is due to melanin pigment, blood and other constituents. Temperature, allergies, exposure to sun, lack of sleep, fat deposits, genetics... Those are some of the reasons why individuals have dark circles. Crowsfeet: are described as wrinkle skin. Because there are less sebaceous glands in that area, as the years go by there is a tendency to skin surface dryness. Wrinkle skin areas show a reduction in collagen and elastin. Decrease in muscle tone, genetic factors, sun exposure and aging can also contribute to the formation of wrinkles. Issue 170 - 1/31/05
EYE AREA TREATMENTS Puffiness: the problem with eye area puffiness is often associated with some type of irritation thus being: edema, allergies…Histamine and products of arachidonic acid metabolism (among many other ones) contribute to the formation of edema. Agents with anti-inflammatory properties should be used to treat puffiness. Panthenol, vitamin E, comfrey, chamomile, marigold, ginseng, and yarrow, are some of the botanical extracts that have been proven to alleviate some of the puffiness. Bags: formulations containing firming and astringent ingredients can help improve skin tone. Botanical extracts such as witch hazel, billberry, blackberry, colstfoot, elder flower, and horsetail can help too. Dark circles: certain herbal extracts and vitamins can help diminish dark circles. Vitamin K, quercetin, fisetin, bioflavonoids… can help too. Vitamin C is a must for dark circles, it helps in lightening the skin and is essential for helping the formation of collagen and elastin. Crowsfeet: the best way to avoid crowsfeet is to use a sunscreen. Using retinoidal compounds, enzymes, fruit acids, or liposomes can make some repair of the photo-aged skin. Issue 171 - 2/7/05
TOTAL HOME HAND CARE Exfoliate and moisturize is the name of the game here. You should exfoliate with a hand and body scrub on a regular basis. A very effective home made scrub is cornmeal. Make a paste with liquid soap and cornmeal and rubbed lightly on your hands, paying extra attention to each finger all the way to the nail base, remember that what ages is not the palm of your hand, is the top of it. After exfoliating you can use a low molecular oil or a cream, whatever you choose really rubbed in. You will need to do this procedure daily for at least a week to get results. Remember too that using vaseline, mineral oil, and or any other ingredient that is so thick and heavy, will not let the skin breathe. There is a lot of controversy about this topic and you should use the best judgement. Those ingredients are very moisturizing because it blocks the moisture in, at the same time it doesn’t allow the toxins that the body produces, out. I suggest that if you need to use those products, use them a couple of times a week only and at night. Always remember that whatever you do to your skin, if there is a layer of dead cells between the cream and the skin, you will not be moisturizing as much as you think you are. So be wise and demand the latest and most complete “ Spa’s total hand care”( not only nail care) and follow up with a home total hand care, one without the other can not work as well. And remember too that, the eyes may be the windows of the soul, but the hands are the mirror of your age. Issue 172 - 2/14/05
FROM THE SEA Seaweed, a concentration of seawater, is enriched with the vitamins, minerals and trace elements that are essential to the proliferation of healthy skin cells. The ocean has much to offer us in terms of nourishment and relaxation, and not just for our mind and spirit, but for our bodies as well. Many natural ingredients harvested from the ocean -sea salts, algae, and seaweed- are full of minerals and amino acids that benefit the skin by rebalancing, detoxifying, purifying, hydrating, and regenerating the skin’s cells. There are many types of seaweed, with the best known being laminaria digitata, for having the ability to absorb 10,000 times the amount of manganese and zinc found in the ocean. It is so pure and concentrated, you only need a small amount to benefit the skin. In a study, herbalist Paul Schulick observed seaweed’s harvesters hands becoming silky soft and their cuts healing abnormally quick. He also notes: the gelatinous nature of seaweed helps the minerals penetrate the skins outer layer, which results in increased moisture and healthier skin”. While all skin types can benefit from the use of products containing seaweed, it is generally promoted for drier, more mature skin. It is like food for the skin. You need to remember, though, that seaweed based products are not for everybody. Individuals with iodine reaction, that have acne, or are pregnant, should avoid it’s use. Issue 173 - 2/21/05
AHA What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids? A family of natural compounds found in plants, fruits and sour milk. For instance: citric acid from citrus fruits, maltic from apples, tartaric from grapes, lactis from milk, glycolic from sugar cane…… How Do They Work? It dissolves a glue-like substance from the upper layer of the skin, this dissolving causes dead cells ( and not so healthy ones too) to slough off the surface more quickly than usual & leaving instead, the top layers of skin feeling soft & silky. Depending on what results you want to achieve & how serious your problem is, you will need anywhere from 6-12 in salon treatments, considering of course, that your are using AHA at home too. The higher the percent the more results (peeling, redness, etc.) you can expect and also the more irritating it can be. If you have dry skin and it seems no amount of cream helps, it may be that you have a build-up of dead cells that form a barrier between your skin and the cream. In that case nothing but sloughing off that barrier will help. If you have acne or oily skin, once you have cleaned all the dead cells, the penatration of the acid into the follicular orfice opens up and drains pustular formations causing less oils to the surface. Once the oils are cleaned, the pores will tighten up a bit and there should be less chances for blemishes. AHA can help too, with diminishing small lines & wrinkles, it can even help out skin discoloration like age spots and photoaged skin or sun damaged skin. It can soften marks & scars left by acne…. In general, you will have a softer & healthier looking skin. Issue 174 - 2/28/05
PROCRASTINATION Thinking of making some changes in your life but somehow can’t bring yourself to making things happen? Do you have a tendency to put things off? Do you agonize over what you know you should do yet, not doing anything about it? Then, keep reading. Author James R. Sherman defines procrastination as the intentional and the habitual postponement of something that should be done. He keeps writing: you will not find the word Procrastination on a children’s dictionary, most likely, because it takes years to become a full-fledge procrastinator; certainly none of us were born with this negative trait. Inaction can be broken down into categories of excuses: boredom, anxiety, possible risk involved: real or imaginary, lack of priorities, fear of consequences, involves too much responsibility, forgetfulness, unpleasant confrontations, fatigue, indecision, laziness, fear of criticism… Here are some ideas on how to overcome Procrastination:
Remember that the effects of procrastinating are far reaching. When you file your taxes on time, cleaning out your garage or do the things that you have been putting off, you will feel a great reward and satisfaction. You will also feel compensated by obtaining the greatest gift of all “peace of mind”. Enjoy life. Issue 175 - 3/7/05
VITAMINS FOR THE SKIN Antioxidant update What are antioxidants? Antioxidants are vitamins, minerals, proteins, and enzymes essential to life and health. Antioxidants will help fight the excess accumulation of free radicals (unstable molecules created at the cellular level). Some free radicals arise normally during metabolism, while others are created by the body’s immune system cells to neutralize viruses and bacteria. However, environmental factors like pollution, U.V. and X ray radiation, cigarettes, herbicides, inappropriate diet, and stress can also spawn free radicals. Normally, the body can handle these reactions, but if antioxidants are unavailable or if the free radical production becomes excessive, damage occurs. It manifests itself in superficial lines, deep wrinkles, dry skin, loss of elasticity, and skin discoloration. In the deeper levels, free radicals can destroy the collagen and elastin support system, damage D.N.A. and enzymes. Research has indicated that antioxidants can help protect against diseases including cancer, diabetes, eye disease, heart disease, HIV, psoriases, lupus, and dermatitis. It’s as important to use antioxidants internally as it is externally. Its use in skin care products is essential, and it involves: Vit. A, C, E, Spin Trap PBN or better known as Phenyl-butyl-nitrone. Vit. A is commonly used in moisturizers and serums to protect the oxidation of other lipids in the formulation. Vit. C and E can be found in various creams, lotions, and serums. Spin Trap PBN can be found in masks, moisturizers, and eye serums. Other plant antioxidants like Aloe and Shea Butter are commonly used for cleansers, masks, toners, exfoliaters, and lotions. Also, antioxidants are used in sunscreens and other specialized products. Age rejuvenation through antioxidant therapy is achieved though the combination of exfoliation, deep cleansing, antioxidant infusion, and massage. Issue 176 - 3/14/05
THE GOOD NEW DAYS In the book titled “Light on Dark Corners” written in 1895 by B.J. Jefferies and J.L. Nichols, from Naperville, IL., the author states “We May All Be Beautiful.” Though our forms may be uncomely, and our futures not the prettiest, our spirits may be beautiful. And this inward beauty always shines through”. What a beautiful thought. It stresses the concept of inner beauty and it will go far to help our stress filled society into The Good New Days. Something else that will help that inner beauty is to be confident with oneself. There are many tools to help us gain that confidence and to bring it to higher levels. One basic thing that so many of us forget is to take care of ourselves, just doing little things like going to get a facial or pedicure can lift our spirits and can help us relax for an hour or two while we are away from home (no kids, pets, phones, and yes sometimes even spouses). When we go to a salon or day spa we expect to be taken care of and be pampered. In the Good Old Days, there were the basic beauty salons with only hair and maybe nails. There were also traditional European curative spas where the emphasis was and is more on the get well and get pampered feel, where the guests dine on exquisite cuisine prepared by four star chefs, and have the worlds most expensive beauty preparations in their treatments. Guests may even find gourmet chocolates in their room. The New Age American spas concentrate on exercise to the limit and then the guests are fed basic international health food and they get pampered too. The American spa has been redefined into five categories; a destination spa or spa resort, amenity spa, club spas, residential spas, and day spas. Some of the treatments you can expect at any of the spas are: facial treatments; moisturizing, rejuvenating, rehydrating, antiaging, deep cleaning, acne treatments, ampoules and paraffin treatments. For the body; Swedish massage, deep tissue, shiatsu, reflexology, trigger and pressure point release, aromatherapy for face and body, mud and seaweed body treatments. The larger destination, amenity and club spas will also have a wet room for hydrotherapy, vichi showers, saunas, and even mud tubs where you actually submerge in a mud mixture of clays and seaweed, essential and other oils, salts, minerals and herbs, for a highly detoxifying and complete experience. A lot of the larger and smaller spas will also offer nail care, cosmetics, including makeovers and hair care. In other words you can expect from a 30-minute treatment to a lot more in a day spa or salon. You are provided a nice atmosphere where you can relax, be treated and at the same time be taught how to take care of your face and body with the new and innovative products/procedures. Issue 177 - 3/21/05
DID YOU KNOW... THE FACTS ABOUT SKIN CANCER That most skin cancer is a result of exposure to the sun when people are young. Children and teens are particularly susceptible. Eighty-five percent of the photo-aging damage done to the skin by the sun occurs before age 18. Unseen skin damage on a youth may not show up till age 30 as uneven skin color and wrinkles. Use a sunscreen for your children and yourself carefully. “Full Spectrum” or “Broad Spectrum” is a word you want on any sunscreen. It means protection from both UVA and UVB rays. UVA’s are longer-lower energy wavelengths that reach the deeper layers of the skin and stimulate production of melanin. They are also associated with skin aging. UVB’s are shorter rays that are responsible for sunburn. UVA rays, previously thought to be harmless, actually cause the greatest damage to the skin because they penetrate to the deeper layers and destroy collagen bundles. Last but not least, watch out for the SPF number. Just because the SPF number is higher doesn’t mean you get more protection. So says Dr. Fiegasothy from the dermatology department at the University of Pittsburgh. The higher the SPF number the more junk or fillers it will have (and most likely more alcohol which will be drying). The latest studies show that an SPF number of 30 only adds about 1-2 % more protection than a SPF number of 15. You need to apply the sunscreen ½ hour before you go out and keep reapplying it every so often, even the waterproof ones. And remember: the SPF number only reflects the products ability for UVB rays. The FDA has not yet approved any system that identifies UVA protection. Issue 178 - 3/28/05
TOE-RIFFIC FEET According to the American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA ), the average person takes 8,000-10,000 steps a day. Those intricate structures together have 52 bones, 66 joints, 214 ligaments, 38 muscles, and tendons that hold the structure together and allow to move in a variety of ways. Little wonder, then, that there are more than 300 different disorders of the feet. Injuries and diseases are best left to the trained podiatric physician. For the everyday care, health maintenance and advise, you need to seek a professional nail technician. With the help of pedicures, your pedicurist can alert you of possible foot problems that could be occurring now and not having an effect till years down the road. Some of the most common foot problems are : Plantar Fasciitis, or heel pain, Bunions, Aquiles Tendonitis, Heel Spurs, Ingrown Toenails, Stress Fractures, Neuromas…Feet can also show symptoms of systematic conditions such as diabetes, arthritis, and circulatory diseases. To make your feet beautiful, you need to keep in mind a few things : calluses, health of nail and shape, cuticles, and hydration of the skin. Thick-dry skin most likely means an abundance of calluses. To remove them you will need a lot of sanding & scraping. Without that first step, your feet can not get hydrated and maximize the benefit of your body lotion. When you get the nails buffed, trimmed, and cuticle free, along with calluses free, your feet, not only will feel beautiful, they will be beautiful. The icing on the cake is a fabulous polish : hot and spicy or soft and subdued? Go ahead, schedule a professional pedicure. Don’t see it as a treat anymore, see it as a necessity to your feet’s health Issue 179 - 4/4/05
ELEMENTS OF SERVICE EXCELLENCE AT A DAY SPA Service Excellence begins from within. The core of the business has to be strong, with a philosophy on integrity, fairness and dedication to exceed ones needs. There are seven elements that, when combined, are so strong, will assure a magnificent experience at the Day Spa. STABILITY: is defined as endurance, strength, consistency and harmony with self and others. There is an inner purpose and the Spa gives out self confidence. The Spa is credible and trustworthy. EDUCATION: There is an old saying : knowledge is power. However, it is the application of knowledge that creates power. Service Excellence can be achieved only with a commitment to ongoing education. RESPECT: Service Excellence is respecting ones talent, knowledge and caring for clients. Self respect is essential to maintaining high self steam and confidence. Giving respect to clients, co-worker, and anybody that is in contact with you, means that you honor who they are as well as what they are. VALUES: Values are very important in Service Excellence. As professionals, we can not let them slip away. Without those values and high standards, we would loose our focus in our work and life in general. INNOVATION: Sometimes the way to increase Service excellence is to become more creative, stop thinking about the competition and begin focusing on how to give clients a unique treatment session. Bringing in innovative products and services can be very challenging. CUSTOMIZATION: Customizing treatments are key to Service Excellence. Every individual has very personal needs and wants and they should be met. BALANCE: Service Excellence also is the art of creating a balance between clients, spa team members, energy, enthusiasm and excitement about the treatment that has been prepared for the client. Issue 180 - 4/11/05
NAILED Beautifully manicured nails can be the final touch to an elegant, groomed look, but Creative Nail Design says there is more to know about the tips of your fingers than how to apply a few swipes of well-placed lacquer. Did you know:
Issue 181 - 4/18/05
ROSACEA Rosacea is becoming increasingly widespread as the baby boom generation enters the most susceptible ages. There is an estimated 14 million Americans who have rosacea and, according to the National Rosacea Society, a recent Gallup survey found that 78% of Americans have no knowledge of the disease. WHO GETS ROSACEA? Rosacea tends to be more common in individuals with fair complexions. Women get affected more often than men. People of British, German and Scandinavian descent tend to be more likely candidates, although anyone can develop the disease. Rosacea typically begins to develop after the age of 30 as redness on the cheeks, nose, chin and/or forehead and it may come and go. In some cases, rosacea may also occur on the neck, chest, scalp or ears. Over time the redness becomes ruddier and more persistent, and more visible blood vessels may appear. Left untreated, bumps and pimples often develop and in severe cases the nose may grow swollen and bumpy from excess tissue. If you or your aesthetician suspects you have that skin disorder, you need to see a dermatologist for proper initial care. Afterwards, your aesthetician can help develop a skin care program just for you. Some ingredients that you should avoid are: alcohol, menthol, peppermint, eucalyptus, witch hazel, and other ingredients that could be irritating to the skin, like alpha hydroxys, enzymes, fragrances and sunscreen products with high SPF (the more SPF a sunscreen contains the higher the chance of irritation). Products with chamomile, azulene, allantoin, pro vitamin B and aloe are ideal rosacea prone skin. Issue 182 - 4/25/05
SMOOTH OPERATORS No matter what you call them or what name you give them, they are design to make your skin softer, healthier and more attractive. Yes, we are talking about scrubs, exfoliants, and body polishes. Although relatively new to Americans, body scrubs have been part of many cultures for thousands of years. In India, for instance, full body exfoliations using turmeric paste and ground chickpeas have been common for nearly 5000 years. Asian cultures have used rice to polish and lighten skin for just as long. Australian Aborigines still use pink desert salts to exfoliate their bodies. In the Middle East marine salts and Dead Sea Salts have been used for the same purpose since the time of Cleopatra. Today’ scrubs include a wide variety of abrasives: Sugars, including raw cane, organic turbinado and date crystals. Salts from around the world. Beads, both natural (jojoba) and manufactured (polyethylene) valued for their smooth, consistent size. Refined natural abrasives such as oatmeal, nutshells, sand, pumice stones, loofas, crushed grape seeds, marine ingredients, coarse botanicals and even coffee grounds. Other beneficial ingredients that can be added are : antioxidants, like vitamins E and C, moisturizing and emollient ingredients such as almond and soybean oils; botanical extracts like rosemary, sweet orange, calendula, rose hips, chamomile, seaweeds and fresh water algae. This type of scrubs are very beneficial to just anyone with dry, dehydrated and scaly skin. Ideally, you should get them professionally done quarterly. Your home care exfoliation should be simple yet consistent. A rich moisturizing lotion, cream or body butter is a must after scrubbing. How deep do those scrubs reach? They can remove the top two or three layers of the stratum corneum. How to determine the coarseness of the product? On the thickness and sensitivity of the skin; also personal preference. The latest flavors (or scents) are fresh and light: pomegranate, cucumber, raspberry, kiwi, mango, tangerine, grapefruit, mint, vanilla, pear, key lime, berry, …and the old time favored lavender. Issue 183 - 5/2/05
WHAT DO WE WANT AND EXPECT FROM A VISIT TO A DAY SPA? Some of us will be happy with a great service provided by an experienced and talented professional. Most of us want more than that. The latest trends in Spas to look for, according to Data monitor, an independent market analyst company, are:
I am keeping my eyes and ears open on what’s the greatest and the latest in the business, and I will be bringing you up to date on it all Issue 188 - 6/6/05
EYE DEALS Through the ages, poets have described eyes as “windows of the soul”. Because the eyes are the first facial feature to express love, hate, joy or despair, the romantic description fits. Unfortunately, the delicate skin around the eye is the first to show signs of aging, fatigue and stress. Fortunately, scientist are making good use of cutting edge cosmetic technology to create a dazzling array of new products that specifically treat puffiness, dark circles, fine lines and even wrinkles. Skin in the periorbital region (around the eye area) is 5 to 10 times thinner than other facial skin, has fewer oil glands and lacks the natural moisture present in other parts of the body. It’s more sensitive, more delicate and it’s very important to our appearance. Preventing and treating bags, lines and wrinkles is an important part of a professional skin care regimen The latest, state of the art ingredients in moisture and wrinkle control are Peptides. ( See a previous article in Tidbits magazine for an explanation of what and how Peptides are formed and used). Companies that have advertised “the Botox alternative” are using Peptides as their main ingredient in their products. There are some other ingredients that you should also know: wheat protein, retinol, centella asiatica, ester of vitamin E and C, vit. A, B-complex, and K. Green Tea, CoQ 10, and licorice extract amongst many other ones, keep being as popular today as they were years ago. Tips for younger eyes: drink plenty of water. Don’t smoke. Wear UV-rated sunglasses. Get plenty of rest. Limit alcohol intake. Use natural cotton or cloth to remove makeup. Use an appropriate cream or serum for day & night time. Use a mild eye makeup remover. Pay attention to your diet. And remember that hormones, environment and genes can have an effect of skin aging too. Issue 189 - 6/13/05
VITAMINS: THEY DO A FACE GOOD Skin care products loaded with vitamins and minerals can help you put your best face forward. Growing up, you probably heard your mother say” eat your vegetables”. She knew that a daily dose of vitamins and nutrients was important for good health and well being. Now we know that when applied topically, vitamins can also do wonders for the skin. Ingredients suck as vitamins act like antioxidants, help fight free radicals like pollution, smoke, UV rays and other harsh elements that damage DNA and cause skin to sag and loose elasticity. Taking supplements is very important for the well being of your body, but can only do so much for your skin. Vitamin enriched products have a more direct, long lasting effect. Reading labels: -Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA). Products with ALA are ideal for treating clogged pores, help reduce inflammation, minimizes scars and lessen the appearance of large pores. -Deanol Bitartrate (DMAE) is also a strong antiinflammatory. It can dramatically increase firmness and skin radiance. -Vitamin A. This vitamin takes many forms. It causes the skin to exfoliate; a process that slows down with age. Exfoliating brings a fresher –looking skin to the surface and prevents pores from clogging, which can lead to acne. -Vitamin C protects skin against UV and UVB rays. A study done in France in 2001 shows that participants using vitamin C ester (also called ascorbyl palmitate) also showed an enhancement in skin smoothness and a diminish in wrinkle formation. -Vitamin E is being used in balms, lotions, salves and many sunscreens. Vitamin E ( alpha tocopherol) has also been proven in recent research that can smooth rough skin, diminish the length of lines and lessen the depth of wrinkles. -The latest antioxidant to emerge on the market is “Idebenone”. Some researchers are suggesting to be even more powerful than CO Q10, vitamin A,C and E. It has been studied in the treatment of Alzheimers desease, multiple sclerosis, strokes and more. Now, cosmetologist, recognizing the substance can also be used topically for antiaging benefits, are mixing it into creams and other skin care products. This powerful nutrient appears to fight cell damage related to aging and wrinkles. Issue 190 - 6/20/05
BEAUTY WITH INTEGRITY What do the words beauty with integrity mean to you? Beauty, noun: The quality attributed to whatever pleases or satisfi es the senses or mind, as by line, color, form, texture, proportion, rhythmic motion or tone; or by behavior or attitude. Integrity, noun: the quality or state of being of sound moral principle; uprightness, honesty and sincerity. As a consumer, you should always expect integrity no matter where or what business you are addressing. If you have integrity, you will give integrity back on your daily doings, and will expect nothing else back in return. Integrity is a wonderful word; when dealing with people with integrity, they make you feel great, you come out of a meeting with a “feel good” sense, you feel relieved and happier than usual. When you finish a business transaction: opening a bank account, hire a handyman, closing a deal in real state, or whatever it may be, you will feel happy, relieved and satisfied if you have dealt with a person that has integrity. The same applies to the beauty business. How often have you come out of a salon with a chemical work done to your hair that should not have been done to begin with? The core of a successful Beauty Salon or Day Spa is based on the integrity of each person that works there, starting with the business owner, all the way down to the youngest and newest arrival. Knowledge and friendly atmosphere is not enough. You should expect prompt, efficient and honest evaluation of your beauty needs. And don’t forget, how do you feel after the service is done? Hopefully you will have that wonderful, feel good, I deserve it, what a great place to have my services, and I can’t wait to come back type of sense. Issue 191 - 6/27/05
SPA'S TOTAL HAND AND FOOT CARE Why should the words anti-aging, hydrating, and revitalizing just to name a few, should be exclusive services for face care only? Hand care is starting to mimic facial care. If you are getting your nail care at a salon that doesn’t offer exfoliating, nourishing and moisturizing treatments for the whole hand , you are going to the wrong salon. You want to find treatments for cuticles, dry-cracked skin, age spots and treatments to revive, harden and enhance your nails. Such products containing ingredients as enzymes, glycolic & kojic acids, vitamins A, C, E, oatmeal, honey, jojoba ,tea tree, almond and avocado oils ( all oils need to have a low molecular weight to be able to go through the skin) ceramides, collagen, clays, liposomes, paraffin, oxygen …all of those ingredients not only should be known to your nail tech, but should be available to you if you should wish to get that little extra for your hands. Also, don’t forget the newest and latest: microdermabrasion and the very luxurious Hot Stone Pedicures & Manicures. Issue 192 - 7/4/05
WHAT IS STONE THERAPY? Stone therapy massage is an ancient art and all the rage at the hottest Spas around the world. So just what is so amazing about this new modality? A lot. The cold and warm stones create a cleansing, harmonizing and soothing effect upon you. Hot stone facials have been called the most relaxing therapy yet to be offered at salons and spas. The balancing energies of basalt and sedimentary stones are revolutionary in calming the body and mind. The sense of balance that is derived from this service is unprecedented. Combining the cold with the hot stones aids in lymphatic drainage and increases general circulation to vasorestricted portions of your body. A combination of essential oils can be used, such as Frankincence and Myrh for cleansing, lavender for calming, tangerine and lemongrass for uplifting and revitalizing. If a specific product is used on the face, such as an ampoule, the thermal heat of the stones will make the ingredients of that product work twice as good by delivering it to the deeper layers of the skin. Deeply relaxed, therapeutic and results orientated is the best way to described this treatment. Issue 193 - 7/11/05
UNMASKED Over washing, over scrubbing, and over creaming are over taxing women’s faces. To compensate for this self-abuse, there is one skin treatment that is beneficial to all: face masks. We all know that the first place to show signs of stress is our shin. When it comes to taking care of our face, there are some maladies that cannot be remedied by washing and moisturizing alone. Although regular face cleansing removes makeup, cellular debris and dirt from the surface of the skin, masks actually draw impurities up from beneath the top layers so the skin looks more radiant and refined. In a salon environment, a mask should be tailored and customized to each individual. Masks are most effective when used for maintaining healthy skin and targeted at problem areas. Masks are used for moisturizing, soothing, deep cleansing, purifying and decongesting, tightening and lifting… Bentonite, a white clay used to reduce oils and sebum. It has a tightening, cleansing and purifying effect. Kaolin is a form of clay that is used as an absorber of skin oils. It works great on treating acne conditions. Therapeutic Mud based masks will help skin conditions like dermatitis and eczema. Peat & moor mud based masks will treat infl ammatory skin conditions. Camphor based masks acts as an astringent and it freshens the skin. Azulene and chamomile based masks calms and sedates the skin. Perfect for post microdermabrasion and post facial peels. It’s designed to reduce inflammation and irritation. Cellulose based masks are formed by natural fi bers from plants. They make an excellent carrier for other ingredients. Issue 197 - 8/8/05
COMMUNITY LIVING Back to basics with comfort, convenience, Knowledge, experience and dedication to serving one’s own community. What are we talking about? You know the reason why most of us moved to the Tri-Lakes area? Yes, the school district is one of the best in CO, but above all, we want a safe, clean and friendly environment to raise our children, to live comfortably in our middle age, and most definitely to have a quite neighborhood with plenty of clean air (and greens for golfing) for our retiring ages. But, do you really take advantage of what your small community offers you as a resident? Both Palmer Lake and Monument have many events throughout the year that emphasizes that small town community, without you, our neighbor, it couldn’t happen. As a Monument resident and business owner, I can only speak for my town. All of us merchants, at the Plaza and Downtown, work very hard at offering and supplying services and retail needs to all of you. Not long ago I was at a Town Hall meeting and someone said: besides shoes, is there anything that is not supplied by Monument merchants? The answer is NO. Besides hometown cooking restaurants, dinners, delis and bistros, there are world class galleries, yoga, massage and bookstores. Beautiful, classy and eclectic shops for home and gift giving. Flowers, landscaping, wine making, along with office supplies, jewelry, toys, Day Spas, electronics, clothing, boutiques, bike and sporting goods… So, the question is: can you find that special something right here in your own community? Absolutely. You have heard it before: Shop local, support your local community. In turn your merchants support you: donations for fund raiser like: churches, chamber of commerce, charities, organizations, schools… Also don’t forget the events the merchants organize for the benefit of the community; Free concerts in the park, small town Christmas, safe Trick-o-Treat, Fall festival, Monument’s Art Hop, Dance at the Plaza,… All of this is, and more, is done for one purpose: to tie the COMMUNITY together. Remember, Monument is more than a hill and the Tri-Lakes is the perfect setting for living. For more information on any of the local events, please visit www.monumentmerchants.com Issue 198 - 8/15/05
THE NEGLECTED NECK I compare skin care to teeth. You brush your teeth everyday, and you learn this as a child. It should be the same with skin care. You should start young so you don’t have as many problems later and that include caring for your neck and décolleté area every day. As an aesthetician, I can tell which one of my clients take that extra minute a day to moisturize and maybe exfoliate that super sensitive part of our skin. After the eye area, I find that the neck shows signs of aging quicker then any other part of our body. It doesn’t have as many sebaceous glands to provide natural oils and the pores are tighter so you need very careful care and specific serums or creams to provide the moisture that is needed to keep the skin nice and supple. The décolleté gets more sun then the face, so it needs special treatment too.
It really is easy to take care of the neck area; you just have to remember to do it. Issue 199 - 8/22/05
RED INVASION In the last few years there has been a noticeable increase of “redness” on people’s skin. A lot of it is hereditary, and some, is the result of lifestyle addictions. Whether is Rosacea, Dermatitis, Eczema, Seborrhea or any other skin “red” condition, the sooner you treat it, the healthier your skin will be. There are many ingredients that can help minimize this redness, some include: aloe vera, bilberry, chamomile, butchers broom, hazel leaf, licorice, mint, white lily, cit. C & E, teas: green-white-black & red, zinc oxide, St. John’s wort, cucumber, mallow root oil, goji berries… You may want to cut back on: alcohol, caffeine, tobacco, spicy foods & hot beverages. Taking a good vitamin C supplement on a daily basis and eating green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and broccoli that are high on bioflavonoids can also help irritated skin. Potential product triggers for “red” skin include: soap, extra strength cleansers, abrasive scrubs, colognes, perfumes, after shaves and hair sprays. Professional treatments that should be avoided are: peels, microdermabrasion, paraffin, tanning beds or lamps, aromatherapy with vigorous massage; hot steam saunas and whirlpools are not advisable either. A professional way to treat them is with LED treatments. LED is a light therapy treatment new to the market, and very few are FDA approved so far. I will talk to you more about it in my next article. Issue 202 - 9/12/05
COMFREY From Lily of Colorado E-Newsletter - Sept. 2005 Comfrey’s reputation as a healing herb dates back to 400 B.C. The ancient Greeks used it to stop heavy bleeding. Greek physicians of the fi rst century prescribed the plant to heal wounds and mend broken bones. Decoctions of the comfrey roots have been used topically in England since the mid-1600s to aid in wound healing. Comfrey’s botanical name comes from the Greek word that means “to unite.” Nicholas Culpeper, a seventeenth-century herbalist, recommended comfrey poultices for gout, gangrene, and pained joints. He further stated that comfrey root put in a pot of boiling water with “severed fl esh” will join together again. Since 1887, similar uses were also reported in the U.S. Comfrey’s high tannin content is anti-infl ammatory and astringent and thus aids in closing wounds and pores. Comfrey’s remarkable power to heal tissue and bone is due to allantoin, a cell proliferate that promotes the growth of connective tissue, bone, and cartilage and is easily absorbed through the skin. The mucilage found in comfrey is also said to help new fl esh grow and knit together. Interestingly, comfrey also contains a small amount of necrotic properties that helps remove dead skin. A make it yourself cleanser Baking soda used as a gentle cleanser helps detoxify the skin from the outside by removing the grit, grime, and pollution. A simple cleansing formula is:
On low heat, combine all ingredients except the honey. Remove from heat and let cool. Add honey. It will separate, so stir before using. Apply to skin like a soap and rinse off with tepid water. Issue 204 - 9/26/05 WHAT TO DO ABOUT BROWN SPOTS Brown spots on the skin, some say, may be due to vitamin deficiencies in the diet. Others say that it is just a part of aging. Many skin discolorations can be from the sun, birth control pills, to chemicals applied to the skin. Brown spots that begin appearing when one is in his or her 40s or 50s, it is said are from many years of poor nutrition: therefore you must be patient to cure the problem. Marie Antoniette is said to have applied and bathed in buttermilk, which is said to undo some of the negative effects of the sun, and lighten brown spots. Try her method, applying plain, raw certified buttermilk. Or any of this other home remedies: fresh oatmeal, add fresh horseradish in yogurt and apply to skin, vinegar in poultice, essential oils of lemon, rub fresh onions on freckles, eat fresh fruits & salads, take vitamins A & D, take wheat germ oil and also apply topically, take folic acid, apply raw potatoes and mashed strawberries. As with any home remedy, use caution, common sense and consistency to achieve long term results. |
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