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ARTICLE 1 - FEBRUARY 2007
WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, AND WHY SHOULD I CARE? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center You may remember the commercial with the greasy, grubby mechanic that tells you, “Pay me now or pay me later.” If so, you should be aware of the need to care for your motor vehicle. This comment has never been more real and the pay me later more costly. There are several reasons to follow the manufacturer’s schedule or other maintenance chart. Vehicle reliability, safety, minimize future breakdowns, and increased resale or trade in value are among the reasons. You can save time and money in the end and have a safer, more reliable auto. Today’s cars and trucks require more than oil changes and an occasional check of other fluids to continue in operation. The demands we place on our rides also place greater demands on the various components of the auto. Fuel injectors, power rack and pinion steering, anti-lock braking, all wheel drive, traction controls, four wheel steering, electronic transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials all have special fluids and lubricants that break down over time due to temperature, oxidation, and time. Each of these components has a need for regular service; plus most take fluids and lubricants particular to that vehicle. When a service is recommended by your repair shop, there is usually a legitimate reason. When neglected, parts fail. Internal parts harbor dirt, build up deposits, and passages are restricted. These problems can translate to very expensive repairs if not remedied. Premium services that include cleaning of systems and complete flushes rather than a simple drain and refill are needed. Have you priced a transmission lately? The list of suggested services is long and can be overwhelming. There are fluids to change or flush, parts of the car to check, tires to rotate, timing belts, and who knows what else to do. What do I really need to do and when? First, read your owner’s manual for suggestions. Second, find a trusted repair shop and have them look at your vehicle and listen to their recommendations. How critical is a brake system flush? How necessary is replacement of the timing belt? What does a fuel injection cleaning do for me? All legitimate questions. Again, find a technician you can trust. Prepare a schedule of these maintenance items that you both can track and get them done. You do not have to do it all at once, have a plan that is sensible and affordable. You will reap what you sow. Car professionals say that a history of repairs and maintenance on your car adds great value when selling or trading in. If you were buying a car, wouldn’t you feel better knowing that a $700 timing belt was done rather than have to face that bill or worse on a car you are buying? You protect new car and used car warranties. Overall vehicle performance is improved. With the fuel system functioning efficiently and all other parts of the car doing what they do, you save on fuel costs, other repair costs, and the hassles of going to the repair shop. Does this mean you have no breakdowns? Of course not, these are still mechanical devices made by man. However, it is proven that repair costs and failures are greatly reduced. In addition, you may find a problem before it becomes a larger, more expensive problem. You can have peace of mind that the car your wife or child drives is safe and reliable. Maybe the person on the road with you has read this, too. ARTICLE 2 - APRIL 2007
SHAKES, RATTLES AND ROLLS by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center We hear it so often this time of year, and especially this year, “My car shakes as I drive it, it pulls to the side, I have hit so many potholes.” This has been a banner year for those dreaded potholes, slides into curbs, and other winter related mishaps. Your car or truck can take a terrible beating through all of this. The damage starts from the bottom at the tires and carries throughout the car. Normal driving takes a toll without any additional help from your driving habits or the weather. Alignment procedures, tire design and compounds, steering mechanisms, and suspension technology are vastly different from just 20 to 30 years ago. The dynamics and interworkings of each system are complex, yet simple. You may not understand the terms of caster, camber, toe set, or slipped belts (unless it is your plumber’s), but your car does. Next time your vehicle is in the shop, have them show you the various parts of your suspension and steering. Examine your tires, especially the inner and outer edges. Do you see even wear at all points? Is there more wear on one tire or on one edge? If so, you have a problem. The solution may be as simple as more frequent tire rotation or improper tire pressure. Have the car checked out. A repair shop may offer a free or inexpensive alignment check. This time also allows the shop to check other parts of the car, so you can get a lot for next to nothing. How do you explain to the service writer that something is wrong? Does the car shake? Does the car pull hard to one side in routine driving? What happens when you brake? “I seem to wear out tires way too often.” We hear these comments all the time. In general, shaking is due to the tires or balance, pulling is an alignment issue involving the steering and suspension, and tire wear or brake problems can be a combination of both. Yes, braking is affected by your suspension and steering. If there is any question about the problem you are experiencing, have the technician or service writer ride in the car with you and point out what you see, feel and hear when driving. Does your vehicle need a 2-wheel or 4-wheel alignment? Most of today’s cars and pickups have alignment adjustments at all wheels. You would not want to adjust one end and cause problems at the other. There are components that wear and can be damaged on all wheels. Shocks and struts must work properly to hold tires flat to the road. In the past, these were subjected to the bounce test. This is not an accurate indicator any longer. These are designed to hold the tire down more than control bounce; springs control bounce. The construction of tires contributes to many of the problems with tire wear and car shakes. Tires are assembled in layers (plies) and the layers can shift or separate over time or due to defects. This separation can cause both severe shaking in the vehicle, and/or a pull in the steering. This separation can be visible if severe enough. Tires should be balanced and rotated several times each year. This allows tire technicians time to focus on the tires and to give a good visible inspection of the bottom side of your car. Have your alignment checked at least annually. If repairs or replacement of parts are suggested, have the repair shop show you why. Most of the parts that wear out have visible means of evidence. The shop should also provide you with a print out of the before and after alignment specifications. As stated before, find a repair shop you can trust. We want your business today and next month. We also want your car to go straight down the road just in case you multi-task while driving. ARTICLE 3 - JUNE 2007
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center The small things taken for granted within the vast operating system we call our automobile can create large problems to both our vehicles and our pocket books. Air cconditioning represents just one of these issues. While the average person may not think to use their air conditioning system year round, the lack thereof can produce serious issues with the air system components. A little known fact pertaining to any given automobile’s air conditioning system lies in the mineral oil throughout the system used for lubrication of the moving components. This oil acts just like any other kind of oil, reducing the friction between moving parts, and increasing the longevity of system components. The method through which the oil travels throughout the air conditioning system is by using the air conditioning compressor - a type of pump - to cycle the oil through the system along with the freon - the temperature lowering agent. The air conditioning compressor operates only while the air conditioning system is turned on so the oil can only circulate while the system is operating. A vehicle which runs the air conditioning system only during the summer months runs the risk of creating noises and eventual system failure. Maintaining a properly lubricated air conditioning system usually requires a system to run about a half hour a month. The mineral oil present throughout a given air conditioning system also maintains certain qualities which improve the life of any seal or gasket existent within the system. In Colorado, the extreme swings in climate cause rubber seals and gaskets to dry and eventually leak - especially with the new R134 systems utilizing a smaller freon molecule. Air conditioning oil is mixed with a rubber conditioner which prolongs the life of seals and gaskets by keeping the rubber moist. In the event an air conditioning seal begins to dry and crack, the freon (and oil) may then exit the system, causing an uncomfortable car ride and undue stress on the system. While air conditioning systems remain fairly inexpensive to refill, replacing any of the moving components can easily cost in the thousands of dollars. Properly diagnosing and repairing an air conditioning problem can only be accomplished by a qualified repair facility, and requires evacuating the system of any freon, checking for leaks and faulty equipment, and then injecting new freon along with any oil the system may require. Cycling and replacing the freon and oil within an air conditioning system, while generally taken for granted as a luxury, can be the difference between a $100 recharge and a $200 repair bill. ARTICLE 4 - AUGUST 2007
IT'S NOT TOO SOON by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Don’t blame the messenger, but winter is not far away and it is time to think about preparing your car or truck for the winter season. There are several key areas to consider. Tires, of course, engine cooling system, heater system, and the engine’s ignition system come to mind. Tires - There are as many options with tires as there are for your shoes. What type of tire suits your driving needs? Aggressive snow tires, studded snow tires, a typical all season, or one of the new all season designs with ice and snow ratings are the main choices. Stop in and take a look while your current tires are evaluated. It is so much easier to get your tires before the snow falls than as the snow is falling. Most tire manufacturers base their production on last year’s demand and there are many times that a particular size and style may not be available. When the tires are put on, have the car’s suspension alignment, and brakes checked. The car’s engine cooling system is more than just the antifreeze. This is also the heat source for the cabin heater. Having a proper mix of water and coolant is very critical. Having the correct coolant for your particular car is key in today’s proprietary minded auto manufacturers is just as crucial. Mixing of antifreeze types can cause severe problems. Look at the color of your coolant. Is it green, blue, red, some shade of gold or orange? Does it look like a gooey, oily mess? Have your shop take a look. It may need to be flushed. A proper system flush is more than draining and refilling the radiator. A cleanup and conditioner should be run through the entire heater and cooling system, then fresh coolant added. The engine’s thermostat should be replaced periodically also. Are there any leaks to be addressed? Often a leak that has been dormant will resurface after a flush. You should be aware of this. Now is the time to fix the leaks. How is the heater working? Not much of a concern now, but it is the time to think about it. Does the blower motor work? Are you getting air flow in the correct vents? Any noise in the blower? If you have a van, SUV, or other vehicle with heating for the rear passengers, does that heater work? It probably has not been on in 6 months. Take a few minutes, turn everything on and check the operation of your heater and defroster. Your car may start and run fine now, but how will it be come the first cold spell? Cold weather brings on many changes in the chemistry of your car’s ignition and fuel system. Fuel is different in the winter than summer and reacts differently. We see many cars that have been so severely flooded while trying to start the car that the plugs become fuel fouled and must be replaced. The fuel will wash into the engine oil and an oil change is required. Consider a tune-up and fuel injection service before this happens. This will increase your fuel economy and performance of your car. If you have a diesel vehicle you should have your fuel filter changed and an injector service, too. You may want to buy a fuel conditioner to add to the fuel. Finally, take the time to drive with radio off, cell phone off, and no other noise and windows down. Get to know the noises peculiar to your car. Do this regularly so that you can recognize any changes in how your car “talks” to you. You can often prevent a minor repair from becoming a major expense with knowing your car. ARTICLE 5 - OCTOBER 2007
THE INS AND OUTS OF CAR REPAIR by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Why does it seem that every time your vehicle is in a shop there is work needed that you did not anticipate? Are the shops ripping you off? Taking advantage of you? On the other hand, are they simply good at their job and being thorough? The truth is that all of this can happen in the world of repairs; be it cars, TVs, appliances, doctors or dentists. Crystal balls just do not work like they used to. Good technicians should examine your entire vehicle on most visits to the shop and at least point out those needs. Every time you start your car, there is wear and tear. When you drive, there is more wear and tear. Fluids breakdown with time, temperature, and miles; brake parts wear with each application; shocks and struts wear with every little bump or bounce; steering components move and wear with every turn; switches switch and sensors sense non-stop; all contributing to the areas to be addressed by the technician. There are multiple computers on cars, specialized fluids (NOTE: There are more types of antifreeze, oil, transmission fluids, and gear lubes than ever before. Make sure the proper fluids are used in your vehicle.), many electronic controls, and ever-changing technology to deal with. All this contributes to the needs of the car. Conscientious technicians should take time to look at your car with every repair or maintenance. Car manufacturers publish suggested schedules for most fluids and other areas of their vehicles to be changed or examined. These are not always accurate. Depending on how and where you drive and other conditions your vehicle may need more or less frequent services. Some technicians have a more critical approach to taking care of you and your car and as a result will make recommendations accordingly. In the diagnosis of a check engine light, there are enough scenarios to write a book. Sometimes the light can come on because of a loose gas cap, which means there is a loss of vacuum in the evaporation system. Many other items can trigger the same error code. This can require more research and diagnostic time. Other error codes will point to a sensor not working properly. This doesn’t mean the sensor is bad, but operating outside of the set parameters because of another malfunction. Again, this requires diagnostic time to find the real problem. An error code indicates the area of the car that has a problem and the scan of the car’s computers will show that area, not necessarily the broken part. Much like when you have a headache. Is it really your head that hurts or could it be a tension headache, stiff neck, or other cause? Can something that is working fine today go bad tomorrow? Of course it can. These are mechanical and electronic machines that break unexpectedly. It happens daily. Can these things be predicted? Not without that infamous crystal ball. All a shop can do is tell you what they can see and let you know what is going on. You have to decide what to fix or service. We can give some guidelines as to the life of some components, but this is still a guideline. We cannot factor in your driving habits or conditions. Our goal is to keep your car in good working order. We consider your safety first and extending the life of the car next. Records show that good, regular maintenance will allow the car to last many years and miles. Other services such as injection cleaning will allow the car to perform better and be more economical to drive. Simple steps like tire rotation and balance will extend the life of the tires, cause less wear on the suspension and steering. All we can do is explain to you what we see. You have to decide what is important to you. ARTICLE 6 - DECEMBER 2007
YOU DESERVE A BRAKE TODAY by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center We all deserve a break now and then, but what about your car? We are often worried how our car runs, if it will start, or how have the kids trashed it today. Too often, the car’s ability to stop safely gets ignored until the dreaded squeal that wakes the entire neighborhood or you hear the sound like a cement mixer. We have all heard these sounds on our cars and others’. What could have been done to prevent a costly repair? The answer is both simple and complex. Today’s world of brakes is vastly different from that of 15 or 20 years ago. There are anti-lock brakes, traction control, 4-wheel disc brakes, and many other brake materials. What is right for my car and me? Prevention is always best. Have your mechanic look at your brake system at least once a year. Notice I said brake system, not just brakes. The car’s entire braking function must be examined. The brake fluid, brake light bulbs, parking brake, ABS system, brake cables, and hydraulic components are parts of a complex system designed to safely stop your car in routine and emergency situations. The actual brake pads or shoes are just small parts. There are adjustments that should be made annually even if all is well. Have your mechanic look at the brakes (and much more) with every tire rotation; assuming you rotate your tires every 5,000 - 8,000 miles. What could be wrong with my brake fluid if there are no leaks? Why do I need to flush my brake system? Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it attracts water, thus contaminating the fluid. This naturally occurs over time. Through the wear and tear of brakes, the fluid also builds up with other contaminants such as copper, brake dust, or oils. This inhibits the function of the hydraulic portion of your brakes, which is the principle means of activating your brakes. You push on the pedal causing a piston in the master cylinder to push (at high pressure), fluid to the calipers and/or brake cylinders which in turn presses the brake pad or shoes against the rotors and drums. High temperatures are created with all this friction further breaking down the capabilities of the fluid. With most cars that have anti-lock brakes, this becomes more critical because of the pumps and motors used in this system. Several times a year we find the wrong fluid used, causing massive, costly failures. Never, ever guess at the proper fluid for your brakes - know for certain or you could spend thousands in repair. Brake systems should be flushed every 3 years or as needed. Okay, so I have done all of those precautions and my brakes are still worn out; how do I know what I truly need in repairs? What type of brakes do I need: semi-metallic, ceramic, organic, carbon fiber or something else? The easy answer is to use a repair shop you trust. The worn parts can be shown to you and other repairs should be explained to you. Rotors and drums should always be machined to provide a proper surface to fit against the pads or shoes. There are strict tolerances for the thickness of rotors and diameters of drums that must be followed. If these parts are outside of these measurements, they must be replaced. The materials used to make the brake pads can be just about anything. What is best for your car is generally what was on the car when it was new. In most cases this is a semi-metallic material, but we do see more ceramic options. Virtually any material can be used to make brakes. There are options available on most cars that can be tailored to your driving situation and needs. Always go with a premium product. There are far too many variables in this equation. How you brake, where you drive, the climate, the environment your car is in factor into what makes your brakes work properly. Brakes can be complicated, but your mechanic can help you understand them. Always ask why something is needed and ask why something is not being done. Remember, check the brakes at least once a year, have adjustments done as needed, watch for warning lights, and listen for any odd noises. ARTICLE 7 - FEBRUARY 2008
WHEELS & TIRES: THE GREATEST INVENTIONS EVER! by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center The wheel: arguably, the most influential invention since the dawn of mankind, with the possible exception of homemade fudge, of course. Without it, we would probably still be hauling things on the tops of our heads and would still consider 40 miles just within walking distance. A long road the wheel has traveled-- pun intended-- to realize its current design, namely the adoption of the rubber protective cushion we all know as the tire. Without the tire, driving would become a truly disagreeable experience. Moving 75 miles per hour down even the smoothest road surface, without tires, would just about rattle the teeth out of your head, as any of the Flintstone’s family would agree. A properly functioning tire remains something rarely thought of while it is functional, but the slightest change can create many different problems for the driver. Tires hold their shape using a steel cage wrapped in rubber or another rubber-like compound. The thickness of the steel cable, or belts, used to maintain the integrity of the tire is nominal. The smallest pothole or chunk of ice can cause the steel belts to shift or even break, instigating an “out-of-round” situation for the tire. These cords maintain the round shape of the tire so any shift or break creates a circumstance akin to-- if you can imagine-- sitting on a fully inflated balloon. Obviously an out-of -round tire will feel like you’re driving over a small rock over and over, especially at highway speeds. Additional problems may also occur while driving on an out-of-round tire. Abnormal tire wear-- excessive wear on either the inside or outside of the tire-- can cause the vehicle to pull one way or the other and put undue stress on the suspension and steering systems. Needless to say, any one of these problems left unattended can easily mushroom into serious problems and costly repairs. Tread depth represents another easily overlooked creator of expensive repairs. The average person will generally wait until all that remains of their tire is a nice smooth surface, possibly displaying steel cords in places. This is not good. A tire in this condition, referred to in Industry slang as a “may pop,” may actually blow at any moment. There is also a much larger chance of a steel belt breaking as discussed above. On any given tire, placed in between the tread blocks, lies a piece of protruding rubber called the wear indicator. Tire manufacturers place this indicator, usually 2 or 3/32nds of an inch above the point of being considered “bald,” first to give the owner some leeway from the time a new tire is needed to the time it is replaced. Secondly, tire manufacturers use different types of rubber and silica compounds to wrap the tire and this wear bar indicates the last layer of rubber before the steel cords start to show. Once a tire has reached the tread depth indicator the tire becomes very thin, making it much easier to pick up nails and increases the likelihood of blowout. A tire blowout on the highway can be bad news for anyone involved, including the vehicles around you. Another much overlooked tire issue lies with a tire’s air pressure. Tire pressure set either too low or too high can wear your tires out prematurely and have major effects on the vehicle’s gas mileage. A tire with too low of air pressure will wear faster on the outside edges while too high of air pressure wears a tire in the middle of the tread. Air pressure set just right will wear the tire evenly all the way across. To find the right air pressure setting for your vehicle there is a sticker in the driver’s door jam with all the pertinent info on tire size and pressure, along with a great many other details about your vehicle. With the ridiculous rise in fuel costs lately a driver must use any possible way to cut down on fuel consumption. A tire set at too low an air pressure creates an undue load on the vehicle and can create a damaging effect on the vehicle’s gas mileage. Driving with a low tire, you can relate to driving through a mud bog wherever you drive, and the lower the tire the higher the fuel consumption. Tire pressure may be the simplest, which of course means the most overlooked, problem with any tire, so have your air pressure checked on a regular basis. And so ends our reflection on tires, the great protector of the most influential invention in our great history, and on a side note, ourselves. ARTICLE 8 - APRIL 2008
IS IT TIME FOR A CHECKUP? by Adam Pasquale of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Take a moment to imagine a man proudly flashing a toothless grin. The teeth that remain are few and far between, and in pretty bad shape. The man’s friend asks how he could possibly let something so important reach this level; the answer he receives is something along the lines of “how was I supposed to know?” Just like our proud, toothless friend would have been able to save his teeth by simply making a visit to his dentist every so often, most automobile related problems can be avoided by doing the same with your mechanic. Now, obviously winter time is an not the most common time of year to consider checking your air conditioning system; I mean who uses their air conditioner when its 10 degrees out? But, remember that using this sort of logic is the same way our toothless buddy ended up in trouble. The day most people find out their air conditioner isn’t working is generally the first day of blistering heat, which, of course, is the day you really need it. Checking Freon - the cold stuff - levels is a relatively simple process, and can usually be performed while you wait at most repair facilities. On a side note, whenever you turn on your vehicles defrost setting you are using your air conditioning system. Freon is much dryer then outside air and works much faster when defogging your windows - just another reason to get your air conditioning system checked on a regular basis. There may exist other problems you are not aware of, and expensive repairs can develop from limiting visits to your mechanic for a checkup. Did you know balancing your tires whenever you have them rotated can cut down on front end repairs? And when do we generally have our tires balanced? When they have moved so far out of balance that they begin to vibrate the whole vehicle, and; incidentally, these major vibrations can wreak havoc on the suspension and steering systems of your vehicle, creating costly repairs. Now, when does the average Joe commonly recognize the need for an alignment? When either the car is pulling one direction, causing the driver to constantly hold the steering wheel strait, or when the tires begin to show abnormal wear on the edges, which usually means its time for new tires. Simply put, getting your wheel alignment inspected every six months or so - before the damage is done - can end up saving you a hefty chunk of change. The same is true with all aspects of you vehicle, so what it all comes down to is, visit your mechanic or risk ending up like our toothless friend still trying to figure out how he let things slide so far. ARTICLE 9 - JUNE 2008
FUEL SAVING DEVICES... TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center With the high cost of fuel, we will see many devices advertised that would greatly boost your mpg. Many offer outrageous claims to double or triple how far you can go on a gallon of fuel. While there are many things you can do to increase your fuel economy and engine performance, most of these gimmicks are too good to be true. Due to the computer controls on most vehicles, these devices can actually cause severe engine damage. If your car is under a warranty of any type, they can also void that warranty. Thoroughly investigate any device before installing it on your car. So what can be done to help keep costs down? The idea is to have your car perform as efficiently as possible. This translates into addressing all areas of a car: tires, alignment, transmission, fluids in driveline components, fuel system, air intake, and engine performance. Within these areas are items to service as part of regular maintenance. Let’s look at each area and begin with simple things that can be done. First, make sure your car’s tire pressure is where it should be. This is typically a bit higher than the car maker recommends and can vary with tire type. Low pressure causes the tire to flex more on take off, affects handling of the car, and premature tire wear. Higher pressure can cause poor handling and excessive wear also. Check tire pressures at least once a month. This gives you the chance to inspect tire wear and catch problems before they get too severe. The car’s alignment goes hand-in-hand with tire pressure and wear. The idea is to have the car move forward as easily as possible. If something is misaligned, the car has to push harder, therefore using more fuel and causing expensive tires to wear out. Have the alignment checked and adjusted as needed every six months. This is especially important in this pothole infested area in which we drive. The fluids in your car’s transmission, differentials, and transfer case need to be serviced to allow the car to move easily. All of these fluids can thicken; causing friction, drag, and wear on these components. The service intervals vary from car to car and by how the vehicle is used. These should be checked at each oil change and flushed or exchanged as needed. The heart of the engine’s performance is the ignition and fuel system. Regular tune-ups are a must. Use of the right parts is more critical than ever. We have seen certain types of spark plugs installed and then arrive at our shop not running properly. Changing air and fuel filters is critical also. Cleaning of the intake and fuel injectors can provide dramatic increase in mpg and power. As we drive our cars, they tend to fade very gradually. We do not notice a loss of one or two tenths change in mpg or that we have to accelerate just a bit more to maintain highway speed. By cleaning the intake and fuel injectors, the car’s performance can be improved noticeably. Additionally, use the proper grade fuel recommended for your car. Lower grade fuel can cause the computer to compensate and burn more fuel and can cause engine damage. All these items work together in order for your car to run efficiently. To address one area and ignore the rest will not accomplish the goal. Many are part of regular maintenance and not very expensive. Some are a little more costly, but can save money and extend the life of your car. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. ARTICLE 10 - AUGUST 2008
SUPPORT LOCAL MERCHANTS by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center In these days of mega super-stores, chains and franchises, the locally owned and operated merchant is often forgotten. A few of the big store advantages are obvious – usually prices and options. What does the small neighborhood business have to offer? Much more than one may think. The local owner will spend his personal money in the area – as do the employees. Property and sales taxes that they pay further add to the community’s coffers. A profitable business will allow the owner to contribute to charities, organizations such as Little League, schools, and more. Owners of small businesses tend to support other small businesses. Civic and social involvement of a small business owner has many tangible and intangible benefits. This all contributes to the circle of life in an area like Tri-Lakes. By hiring local workers, the small business helps maintain the growth and stability of the Tri-Lakes community. Workers are not forced to find jobs miles away from where they live. You get to know those who are helping you or providing a service. You have a personal connection that is gone in most areas of our lives. Both parties have a personal interest in giving and receiving good service and the relationship that exists. The small business has a much more vital interest in retaining your business than some big franchise. Long term customers are what the small business wants to maintain. It is less expensive to keep a customer than to attract new ones. In addition, good word of mouth far out-performs any other mode of advertising. The local business wants your loyalty. So, the next time you spend your hard earned money, stop and consider the effects of how and where that dollar is spent. Does this money come back to benefit me in any way or does it go off to some corporate account? Does this dollar help employ my neighbor, support my church, or my kid’s sports team? Does this person taking my money care if they ever see me again? ARTICLE 11 - OCTOBER 2008
SHOULD I FIX THIS CAR OR NOT? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center This is a question we hear a lot lately. An older car or one with high miles is brought in for a problem and it turns out to be a rather expensive repair. The question arises, "Is it worth fixing?" There is no absolute answer to that question. We can give our best advice based on what we know, but as we all know, things do happen. What factors do you consider in the evaluation? When do I cut my losses? What do I do with a car not worth the value of the repair? Certainly one thing to consider is the history of the car. Has it been reliable? Have there been other repairs done? How am I using the car? Is it a second or third vehicle? These are among the questions to answer before making a decision. Also, do I want a car payment? If the car has been repaired primarily at one shop, that shop should have its history and be able to determine its future. Maybe there is a foreseeable major repair coming soon; possibly it is in excellent condition. A car that is to be used locally will not have the same demands placed on it as one that is to be used on longer drives. Again, the shop can tell you what to expect. Certainly one item to consider today is the car's fuel economy. One that is fuel efficient is worth more than one that is a gas hog. Do not forget to look at other items such as tires which can be costly. What regular maintenance items are due to be serviced on the car? So now you have decided not to repair the car, and have to decide what to do with it. You can sell it or trade it in if buying another. One option many choose is to donate the car to a charity. There are many charities from which to choose ranging from local ministry organizations to those like Goodwill. You can deduct the true value of the car on your tax returns. If the car has no real value, you have the option to sell it as scrap metal or to a salvage yard. The repair shop can guide the best choice. It can be a difficult decision when a car arrives at this point. There is so much to consider. You can ask the service writer at the shop if would fix this car if it were theirs. Do not let your heart guide your choice. This is a mechanical device with no feelings and it can be replaced. Be honest with yourself about the car and try to make a logical decision. Just a reminder -- winter is just around the corner. Don't be caught with you car not prepped for the cold and snow ahead. Get it checked! ARTICLE 12 - DECEMBER 2008
THE UPS AND DOWNS OF SHOCKS AND STRUTS by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center You have probably been told by a repair shop that your car’s shocks and/or struts are blown. What exactly does this mean? Your car seems to ride ok, so what is the problem? First you must understand what a shock or strut does and how they are made. Some cars have struts and shocks, some have all struts and some have all shocks. Not sure what your car has, just ask. What is the difference? Both do basically the same thing. There are two different designs. They are meant to dampen the coil or leaf spring oscillation – the up and down movement. Plus, they are a stabilizing factor in ride control. The strut, who’s formal name is Macpherson Strut Assembly after the inventor, is an actual suspension assembly. The shock is a part of the suspension. Without either in place the car would bounce wildly down the road after hitting any sort of bump or dip in the road. The springs of the car are what actually absorb the shock, not the shock or the strut. Both use a hydraulic cylinder with internal valves that allow the shock/strut to compress at a controlled rate. Valve designs and somtimes the size of the cylinder are what make the units stiffer or softer. A bigger diameter does not always make for a stiffer or better shock. The main task of both is to hold the tires to the road. They also assist in the handling of the car by controlling the body roll. If the shock or strut is weak these things will not happen. What tends to happen over time is for the ride to soften at such at gradual rate that most people do not notice it. You become accustomed to your car’s ride even though it has degraded. So how do you tell if you need replacements? Visual checks will show signs of leaks of the hydraulic fluid. Some is normal as the piston moves up and down, anything that looks wet is too much. Excessive leaks give the idea of a “blown” shock. With loss of fluid the shock cannot do its job. Another tell-tale sign is tire wear: look for uneven wear on the edges of the tire. The industry term is “cupping” or “scalloping.” If you see this, your car may be bouncing too much. Does your car seem to sway, bounce, squat excessively at starts and stops or bottom out in bumps? Have your car’s suspension checked out by a professional at least yearly, and also look for signs that your suspension needs repair yourself. Pay attention to the ride and seee if it seems normal. Also have your alignment checked. You can save yourself money on tires and suspension repairs by closely watching your shocks and struts. Ps. Do your headlights not seem very bright? Many headlights that are hazed over can be polished like new! ARTICLE 13 - FEBRUARY 2009
HELP, MY CAR LEAKS! by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Every day you see a pool of fluid under your car and wonder what to do, if anything. What kind of fluid is it? Is it serious? Is it dangerous? What caused the leak? These and other questions run thru your mind. With all the various systems that carry a fluid of some variety in your car ther is a lot to be concerned with. And these leaks should be checked out by your mechanic, as they can lead to catastophic failure and huge expense if ignored. These fluids can be engine oil, engine coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid (manual or automatic), transfer case, front or rear differentails, windshield washer fluids, air conditioner, even the shocks and struts can leak. A few cars will have other items that can leak, also. So what to do when you see a leak? It helps to know the area of the car that the leak shows and the color of fluid. Many times you can place a pan or piece of cardboard under the car to collect the fluid. This can help you and the mechanic identify the leak faster. Do this and bring it with you to the repair shop. Another good idea is to periodically clean your engine area and underneath the car. Slow leaks will collect in pockets and on surfaces and hide serious leaks for a long time. Once the car gets to the mechanic, they often can identify the leak quickly and advise how to repair it. Other times if the leak is say on top of the engine, it can hide other leaks below it and other types of leaks. There is dye available that can be placed into the fluids to more accuratley determine the source if there are multiple leaks. The dye shows up under a blacklight and can pin point most leaks. Have your repair shop estimate the cost of repairs and advise you as to the severity of the leak and its consequences. There leaks that are essentaily a nuisance and can be monitored over time. Others should be repaired now! Keep in mind that fluids like coolant attract animals and can kill them. Antifreeze is very dangerous! Also, and this is especially true with a coolant leak, one repair can lead to another. Your car’s collant system is under pressure. If there is a weak area in that system a leak will develop. When that is repaired the next weak link will appear. Be advised of this in any repair. There are often other repairs that can be done inconjunction with another. Cost savings and the convience of one time in the shop are good reasons to take that approach. Most importantly, do not ignore leaks. A rather minor repair can save hundreds or thousands of dollars. Would your rather buy a radiator hose or an engine? Plus it keeps the mess off your garage floor. ARTICLE 14 - APRIL 2009
WHAT CAN I DO TO PREVENT BREAKDOWNS? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center None of ever want to have our car breakdown, but it is almost inevitable; afterall it is a mechanical and electrical device. But what can be done to lessen the chances or prevent the inevitable? There are actually many things that we can do. Some are very simple and cost nothing, others do have a cost. By following these simple recommendations you can save money, also. Start off by taking a slow walk around your car. Examine the body, glass, lights, and tires. Are there scatches or dents, broken lights or lenses? Are the tires properly inflated? Do they show even wear or is there unusual wear patterns? Do you see bulges in the sidewalls? Now look under the car for any signs of leaks. Note the location of any of the leaks and color of fluid if possible. Also look for anything that is hanging from the car or appears to be lower than normal. Next open the hood and take a look around. Look for the fan belt/belts, coolant hoses, various fluid reservoirs, and battery. Don’t know where to look, stop by your repair shop and have them show you. Check the belt for cracks or frayed edges. If so it is time for replacement before it breaks. Examine the hoses for signs of leaks and feel each one--while engine is cold! Do they feel hard or brittle, soft and spongy; oil soaked? Check the level of each of the fluids and the condition of each. None of the fluids should seem as though there is dirt in them. Consider having the dirty systems flushed and fluid replaced. The battery terminals should be mostly clean with very littler corrosion. Excessive corrosion is a sign of a weak battery, soon to go bad. Have the battery and electrical system tested. Now start the engine and listen. Be sure and turn off the radio. Do you hear any squeals, chirps, growling or other odd noises? If so get a professional opinion. Is the idle smooth or does it seem to miss or surge? Go for a short drive in a quiet area with windows down. Again, listen to the car. Are there noises that do not seem right? If all seems to be ok, then note this as normal and repeat this drive every couple of weeks. Any unusual noise should be cause for concern. Be sure and apply the brakes and listen. Any noise there, have the brakes checked immediately. Turn on the wipers, air conditioner, heater, lights and other items to make sure everything works. Also, next trip to the car wash; be sure to wash the engine compartment and under the car. Spray off the wheels and brake areas as best you can. Perhaps the best thing for your car is an examination once a year or more. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for maintanance. This allows a professional to examine these items and more. While a technician cannot predict the future, they can head off some problems. Have the tires rotated and balanced at least twice a year and the alignment once a year. Do not ignore any odd noises from your car. Catching the problem sooner can save money. Trust your repair shop when they make a recommendation for service. They do have your best interest in mind. ARTICLE 15 - JUNE 2009
NATURAL, OR MANMADE? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center One topic that often comes up questions what type of oil to use, synthetic or convential oil? What are the advantages of either? What exactly is synthetic oil? Are there other synthetic fluids to use in my car? Is it worth the additional costs? Does the use of synthetic oil require any other changes, such as maintenance intervals? Synthetic oil has its origins in jets engines. Due to the extreme conditons that exist in jet engines, a lubricant was needed to withstand the extreme heat and cold temps that aircraft endure. Plus, the consequences of engine failure at 40,000 feet are a bit severe. Not too many tow trucks at that altitude. A retired flight commander started amsoil corp and developed a synthetic oil for auto applications. Major oil companies, such as mobil, formulated synthetic products to compliment their conventional offerings. There are also synthetic blends. All oils use a base lubricant plus various additives to improve different aspects of the oil. Viscosity, anti-foaming, and cleaning agents are added to improve the oils. There are now synthetics fluids for most all applications in a car or truck. Transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, gear lubes and more are available. There is a right time and place to use both synthetic and conventional oil. Newer, low mileage engines can last longer and run better with synthetic oils. Synthetic oil is more free flowing, has better lubrcating properties that last much longer than conventional oils that breakdown in a relativley short time. Lower friction reduces the temperature of the engine and will extend engine life. Engines with higher miles may do better with conventional oil due to the wear that comes with age. These same benefits can cause a high mileage engine to use oil or leak. A switch to thicker conventional oil may be best. These properties serve to make a much superior gear and transmission lube. You can extend the interval between oil changes within reason. Remember, there is still the dirt and builup carried in both oils. The additional cost of using synthetic fluids can be offset by increased life of the car, better fuel mileage, and reduced chance of breakdown. You still should follow the carmaker’s recommendations regarding viscosity and change intervals. ARTICLE 16 - AUGUST 2009
IT'S TIME AGAIN by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center It seems as though there is never an end to the maintenance and repairs to vehicles. Each season brings its own concerns. Now, with the kids coming from and going to school, there is yet another round of car care. Plus, the car needs to be ready to go and in optimum condition for those family trips on the trails and roads to view the aspens, camp, fish, and hunt. What to do and when to do it are questions we hear frequently. “What does my car really need?” How those questions are answered depends on many factors. A key factor is how the car has been maintained in the past. A well cared for car is likely to require fewer repairs. How is the car to be used? Will it only be driven around the corner to school or across the state to college? Will it be driven on the jeep trail or on the interstate? Do I plan on keeping this car for six months or six years? Is this my main or only means of transportation? What are my options if I do not want to repair the car? Can my budget afford this car? These are just a few considerations regarding car repairs. The answers to these questions and others can affect the course of repairs and maintenance. First and foremost, if you have a teenage driver (or really anyone driving a vehicle), safety and reliability is paramount. Me sure things like brakes, steering, suspension and tires are in good shape. Ensure that the timing belt has been replaced as recommended? Is the tune-up current? How is the battery? The cooling/heating system should be checked annually for dependability and to avoid other problems. Do the tires have sufficient and proper tread for the type of driving you do? Your local repair shop can help you address these questions and they will undoubtedly check other mechanics as well. Build a history of repair and maintenance records so that an appropriate course of action can be determined. Certainly, you want your teen’s car running in as best as possible and more importantly, safely. This can lead to carefree trips to our great outdoors and fewer worries as the kids head off to school. ARTICLE 17 - OCTOBER 2009
GIVE ME A BRAKE! by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center One of the most common repairs today is the brake system. There is also much confusion as what makes up a brake job and when is it needed. Next to tires, brakes are the highest wear out item on a car. Picture a pencil eraser as it wears down as it is used. The brakes wear in much the same way every time you step on the brake pedal. Your car’s brakes basically consist of the friction material (eraser), rotors or drums (paper), and the hydraulic system. As you step on the pedal the fluid is pushed thru the lines to a piston that presses the friction material against the rotors or drum. The hydraulic portion consists of the master cylinder, calipers and/or wheel cylinders any of which can fail or leak. Plus, most cars today have antilock brakes which will be covered later. The fluid can leak and become contaminated which reduces its effectiveness. As the brake pads or shoes wear down they need to be replaced. The rotors or drums also wear down and either have to be machined to true shape or replaced. Various pieces of hardware holding things in place should be replaced also. You should have the brakes checked annually. So what should you notice as you drive? Listen for noises, changes in braking, soft or spongy brake pedal, shaking or pulsating brakes, loss of brake fluid. Do you have to press the pedal harder or farther than previously? Visual checks should include abnormal wear (one brake pad wearing more than others), indications of too much heat, bad fluid, and leaks. Cracks in the pads, glazed surfaces, or broken parts are other items to look for. So now that you need brakes, what should you expect? For example, in a normal repair of disc brakes, the pads and hardware should be replace, rotors machined, and all moving parts cleaned and lubricated. Brake fluid should be either flushed or added. Brakes pads should be of a quality equal to or better than the oem brakes. The material (metallic, ceramic, etc) should match oem, also. There are fewer requirements on the composition of brake pads and shoes than on hot dogs sold at the ball park. Make sure your repair shop is using a reputable brand of brake parts. Your life and other could depend on it. If rotors are below specifications they must be replaced. If calipers are leaking or show defects they should be replaced also. Rear drum brakes should be cleaned and properly adjusted at this time. As always use a repair shop you know and trust. They want to see you return for future repairs and maintenance. ARTICLE 18 - DECEMBER 2009
THE LIGHT IS ON AGAIN! by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center One look at the instrument cluster on today’s car can be very confusing. With indicators for lights out, washer fluid low, tire pressure, and so much more; how can one keep track of all this and what they all mean? Can I ignore any of them? Which are the most urgent and critical? Again the easy answer is that you should not ignore any light that comes on. They are all meant to signal a problem of some sort; some more critical than others. The most infamous of the lights is the check engine or the service engine soon light. This indicator has been around for years now causing many anxious moments. What do I do about these lights when they come on you ask. When you have a light on simply talk with your local shop for advice or repair. A flashing light indicates a serious problem and should be addressed immediately. Several of the lights are for safety such as the ones for tire pressure or light out. These are usually an easy fix. Other light are for convenience such as low washer fluid. A light on for ABS or Air Bag are safety related also are more critical and can indicate a more severe problem. One note, when the ABS or Air Bag lights are on those systems are not working so these should be looked at immediately. The ABS error also affects the car’s traction control systems. We are all familiar with the check engine light. This can indicate a serious problem or something as simple as a loose gas cap. Nonetheless, these indicators should not be ignored. We will talk about the more serious check engine and ABS lights. The lights simply indicate that something is operating outside of set parameters that a computer monitors. There are many sensors in each of the car’s systems that send signals to the respective computers. If there is no signal or the indicators are outside of the settings, the lights come on. When a system is scanned to read these error codes, this does not show what the problem is, but where. Additional diagnostics is required to find the true fault. A code for engine misfire can point to many possible problems. Spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, and injectors can cause this code. Other frequent codes are for oxygen sensor faults and catalytic converter efficiency. Further diagnostics is required to determine the fix for these codes. An ABS light indicates that the car’s antilock brake system is in error and not working. Again there can be several causes for the error that need to be checked. Bottom line is to not ignore any light that is on. Repairs can either save you from breaking down or from a traffic fine. Have the light checked ASAP. By the way, the most common error code we see is for an emission system vacuum leak that can be caused by a loose or missing gas cap, so always make sure the cap is tight. ARTICLE 19 - FEBRUARY 2010
LOOK AHEAD AND BUDGET by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center With everyone concerned with where the dollars go, but still want to maintain their cars, it pays to look to the future to plan and budget accordingly. While you cannot predict many of the repairs your car may need, you can do some preventative maintenance. These services will vary from car to car. How do you know what will be needed? The best place to start is your owner’s manual. Inside should be a schedule of recommended services at specific mileage intervals. This would include services of the various fluids, inspections of many components, timing belts, tune-ups, and more. If you do not have the manual, you can access these on line. Most repair shops can also print the services from their technical data. If all else fails, the shop can do an annual inspection of your car and advise you as to the needed services. Most all fluids in your car should be serviced at some point. With so many long life fluids in use, there is a tendency to not inspect these fluids until the service interval is reached. Keep in mind that this long life expectancy is determined within ideal conditions that no vehicle ever sees; therefore be sure to have all fluids inspected regularly. It is also important to use the proper fluids. There are many different antifreeze/coolants, transmission fluids (automatic and manual), driveline fluids, oils and soon even freons for the a/c systems. As the definition of a tune-up changes by vehicle and as time goes on, try to be proactive with this aspect of your car. Gas engine cars still all use spark plugs so those can be replaced before they fail; the life varies from 30,000 to 70,000 miles. If your car has a fuel filter (fewer do) these should be changed every 24,000 miles or so. Periodic cleaning of fuel injectors and upper intakes are a good idea too. These two services can increase fuel economy and restore performance. One big expense found on many cars is replacement of the timing belt. Recommended replacement varies from 60,000 to 105,000 miles and can be very expensive if related components are replaced at the same time. The other side of that coin if the belt breaks can be much, much more expensive as internal engine damage can occur. This is certainly an area that can be budgeted for. These and many other repairs and maintenances can be planned and budgeted for well in advance. This will help reduce the number of unexpected repairs since the car is in the shop and will be inspected more thoroughly. Visit your shop and have them inspect your car and prepare a listed of foreseeable services and repairs that are needed. With your budget in place you can more easily schedule and have your car running better. ARTICLE 20 - APRIL 2010
I TURN THE KEY AND... by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Almost every day we see problems with cars not starting, having a difficult time starting, and the battery light or voltage gauge indicating a problem. Today’s cars have demands on its electrical system that are so far beyond that of 20 years ago. With multiple computers, clocks, radios, DVD players, multiple power outlets, plus many comfort options; most cars should have at least two batteries. The battery and alternator do so much more than start and run the car. So often when a car does not start, the first comment is that the lights turn on and radio works. But that is just the beginning of what the battery does. Much more voltage is required to start a car than ever before. Stop and think for a moment all that turns on when you start and drive your car. Seasonal issues aside; you have lights, clock, power seats, power mirrors, power windows, electrical door locks, alarm systems, stereos, movie players, GPS systems, phones and laptops charging, and more. In winter there are seat heaters, defrosters and heater system; summer brings air conditioning. Within each of these areas there can be personal amenities that create extra need for voltage and current. Newer cars have multiple computers that require electricity while in use and when car is off to maintain the memories as do stereos and clocks. You may think that batteries and alternators are not as good as in years past when they are actually much better. Today’s alternator typically have outputs in the 100-150 amp range, where 20 years ago 60-80 amps was the norm, Batteries had 350-400 cranking amp capacities and today most are in the 550-750 range with 1000 amps available. Take a look at the fuse box or boxes on your car and see the range of fuses there. When was the last time you saw a 40 amp fuse much less a 100 amp in a car? Temperatures under the hood are higher and take additional toll on the systems. With all this demand you should have the battery and alternator checked regularly. What signs should you look for before you have a serious problem? First look for corrosion around the battery posts, corrosion on the cables and into the cable insulation, and the age of the battery. Most OE batteries last about 5 years, replacement 5-7 years. If you see excessive corrosion, that can be a sign of a bad battery or alternator. As the battery starts to breakdown it vents more fumes (acidic) that creates the corrosion you see. This can also be the result of the alternator overcharging the battery or a combination of the two. Keep the connections clean which helps get voltage into and out of the battery. When you have the battery tested, run both a load and circuitry test. A battery can pass one but fail the other; it should pass both. Try to buy the most battery you can afford, but stay within the minimum requirements for your car. The alternator also has high standards to meet. There is constant demand on the alternator with charging of the battery and running the various equipment of the car. Plus the alternator is a moving part and moving parts do wear and tear. The alternator should meet minimum standards also. Most should operate at about 60% of it new capacity; for example a 100 amp alternator should charge at around 60 amps. Listen for noise from the bearings of the alternator as the engine runs and for headlights to change intensity as engine rpms go up and down. Take a look at the belt that drives the alternator regularly. Low voltage can affect such things as the ABS system, traction systems and other safety related items. As always have the systems checked annually by your trusted repair shop. A good check should take about 20 minutes, much less time than waiting for a jump. ARTICLE 21 - JUNE 2010
COOL CARS! by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Before we go too far, this is not about the latest car models; just how to have a cool car. It is that time of year again, tho it took a while, the heat is on and the air conditioning system in your car will be working overtime. Just how does this work and what can you do to keep things cool? There are many parts of newer a/c systems, electrical and mechanical. Many areas that refrigerant can leak, which we will call Freon for short. We will cover the basics this time around. The a/c system revolves around pressurizing a gas (Freon) which causes the Freon to cool. The Freon then circulates to a radiator like evaporator core where the fan blows air across it to create cool air in your car. This is a very simple explanation and there are many other components involved. Obviously, if the car is not providing cool air then there is a problem. What is wrong is the next question. In most cases you should begin with an evacuation and recharge of the complete system. This enables the tech to know that the levels of Freon and oil are proper, plus that pressures are within limits. Dye is also added to search for leaks-some which may turn up later. Leaks are the most common problem and can be expensive to repair, although some are not so bad. There can be 6 or more connections that can leak plus various components. Leaks do not allow proper pressure to build and low Freon level does not provide cooling. Like any other fluid or gas system one leak can prevent you from finding others, so be aware that other leaks or problems may be present. You must take it step by step. A common problem is the compressor, the heart of the system. It can leak, seize, come apart or just quit working. This leads to expensive repairs typically. Other parts recommended to be replaced at the same time are the accumulator and orifice or expansion valve. These act like filters collecting debris and moisture. The compressor is driven by a belt and is what pressurizes the Freon and circulates it. One other problem seen in some newer cars is a clogged cabin air filter. This acts like the furnace filter in a house and can easily clog with dirt, hair, pollen and other airborne particles. Air flow can be drastically restricted and stinky too. This is easily fixed with filter replacement. As stated, this is just a quick look at an a/c system. There is so much more in today’s systems that it would take pages to cover. Just be sure you have your car’s system check annually, hopefully before there is a problem. ARTICLE 22 - AUGUST 2010
MONEY PIT OR MONEY WELL SPENT? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Something we see a lot lately are older, high mileage cars that need substantial repairs. At times the cost of repairs can approach the worth of the car. The question becomes “Is it worth it?” Sometimes yes, other times no. When do you decide to give up the old beater? This can be a difficult question to answer. Often you are the one in the best place to answer. There are several things to consider when facing this dilemma. First, how long have you owned this car? How familiar are you with its history? If this car has served you well and is still dependable; the answer is easier. If you have had the car serviced at a particular repair shop for most of its time, then they should have a list of repairs made and suggested repairs. This can be the start. If there is a long expensive history and more recommended repairs then the answer could be no. If there is a history of routine maintenance and not a lot on the horizon then maybe yes. Ask the shop to evaluate the car much as a purchase inspection and see what they say. Of course no one can predict the future so keep that in mind. Evaluate cost of repairs versus cost of new car ownership. Second, what is your expected need and use of the car? A primary car needs to be dependable and safe. It needs to start, drive, stop, and perform most all functions expected of it. A second car can have a few more flaws with little negative impact. An oil leak or weak a/c can be overlooked as long as it runs when needed. What would you gain in replacing this car in these situations? A newer car with more repairs needed? Third, what is the repair cost going to be and what will it provide in return? You can pay $500 in repair on a $1000 car and still have a $1000 car. Do you now have a car that you can depend on and continue to drive for awhile? Can you expect to at least drive it long enough to recoup your money? There are times when your only option is to repair the car and you should do what is needed to have a dependable and safe car. Other times you need to cut your losses. By the way, there are several means to dispose of old cars. They can be donated to charities or friends, sold as is, sold to salvage yards or sold as scrap metal. Most repair shops know who to call. There is nothing wrong with having an older car. High mileage cars transport you as well as newer ones. Plus, they have that comfortable feeling of something you know. It is important that you listen to the advice your repair shop gives you. If they say get rid of it or it is unsafe, believe them. They make a living fixing cars not sending them to the crusher. ARTICLE 23 - OCTOBER 2010
DON'T SHOOT THE MESSENGER by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center When we are asked to inspect a car for known and unknown issues, we often uncover surprises and expensive repairs. We can be the hero or the bad guy depending on your point of view. If we diagnose a car that has a break down and diagnose an expensive repair, again we are good guy or bad. Why is this? The answer often depends on the relationship you have with the repair shop. Do you trust them? Have they been dependable and honest in the past? Are they just trying to generate work? These are questions that need answers. Plus, we in the repair business have a saying “We did not break the car; we only report what we find”. Certainly there are unscrupulous shops that generate business with fake needs and repairs. We have all seen this in most industries and businesses. This is where a relationship with your shop comes into play. You would not be returning to them if they had cheated you. Notice I said cheat and not errors. All businesses make mistakes and what separates good from bad is how they respond to these mistakes we all make. Does the business attempt to make things right and fair? We have often recommended to not repair a car either due to it being an unnecessary repair or due to the cost of repair being a waste of money. We do our best to advise you as to the best course of action. At times it is best to let the car die. Other times we can prepare a course of action for repairs needed now and later. As always, preventative maintenance is best. Look for what can be done to extend the life of your car and prevent expensive repairs. Another item we come across is when the customer states the car is acting different after repairs. “It was not like this before” we often hear. Many times a repair can change the way other components of the car react to the repaired area. Many times the car may have come in not running and the full extent of what was wrong cannot be determined before obvious repairs are made. If a car has been jumped improperly or other electrical items replaced; many others problems can easily occur that will not show up immediately. There has to be honesty on both sides as to what was done prior and what the shop found. Again the relationship and history with the shop are important. The theme as always is to build a trusting relationship with your repair shop much as you would with a medical doctor. There must be a line of communication between both parties. Don’t blame the shop that your car has broken. It happens, it is a mechanical device that wears out and things do break. Try to minimize the damage and trust the diagnosis and advice of the shop. ARTICLE 24 - DECEMBER 2010
IN THE REAR VIEW MIRROR LOOKING BACK by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center This is the time of year that many take time to reflect on the year past, ponder things to come and to give thanks. With all that has occurred this year there are many that have much to be thankful for, others not so much, and many that wonder about what is yet to come. We cannot predict what will be, but there is always a reason to give thanks. As you can see, this is not car talk, though we can be thankful for a running car. Thru elections, continued wars, a still struggling (but recovering) economy, and more, we have come to the end of the year. Give thanks that the political ads are done. Pray for those still at risk in war, be grateful for those that serve and have served; they never receive enough thanks and gratitude. Acknowledge these service people when you can. We live in a country, unique in its formation and development, where we can criticize, worship, and express ourselves in many ways. We can be sure that the US will continue to move forward thanks to our people and attitudes. We are still the driving force in the world in almost every facet of life. The economy will recover, there are always cycles as in life. There will be changes in many lives and most will be positive. Adversity strengthens and inspires. New segments in the economy will arise with new jobs (TSA examiners??), new innovations, and new opportunities. Be positive and have fresh ideas, encourage those around you. Inspire youth to be involved and give them something to look forward to. The dark times are not as dark as we think, but the dawns are always bright. Certainly, there are family and friends to consider. Hopefully you are appreciative for those in your life. We all have our challenges—in-laws and such, but they have and do touch us in special ways. We do not know when those around us may not be there or when we will not be here; we just need to make the most of what we have, what we are, and where we are. We are all created to be special in some way to someone; be that person. Lastly, but most importantly be thankful for our creation and Creator. I am personally and eternally grateful for what God has done in my life, how He created this world and those of us in it. You may disagree, but this is another wonderful aspect of our country. We at JJ Tracks extend our thanks to all our customers. Our appreciation goes beyond what can be said here. Thank-you. We wish you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. ARTICLE 25 - FEBRUARY 2011
LOOK FORWARD WITH PLANNING AND BUDGET by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center This is the time of year that one tends to look into the year and attempt to plan. This is the perfect time to add your vehicle’s needs and expenses into the mix. Though no one can tell exactly what may arise, you can at least be financially prepared to some extent. It is tough at times to budget for some things, but if you just set a little aside you can have some funds available for normal and unexpected repairs. First, take a look at what you know your car will need. Items like oil changes are easy to plan; you know tires wear out as do brakes. What does my car need in the way of normal maintenance? Transmission service? Tune-up? Alignment? If you are not sure have your local repair shop look the car over and evaluate the needs and prioritize them for you. They can also give you an estimate of costs so you can better plan. How much to set aside? Of course this depends on the above analysis and other factors. How many miles do I drive? The make and model of car will also affect the expenses. Even if your tires are good now, get a quote or two on tires so that you can add that to your budget. The age and mileage of your car will also affect the needs. Are you considering replacing the car or passing it on to someone? And of course, what can I afford? Every little bit helps. Even if you set just $10 aside each week, this is $520 towards repairs. This will cover most of the basic needs and then some. A good figure is $50 per month, some may need to budget twice that. This should cover most basic expenses plus have some carry over into the next year, which is good, for those expenses that come sooner or later. Plus if you have the money there, you can do more to provide better maintenance and extend the life of your car. If you have fewer expenses than expected, you will have money towards your next car. A little planning can go a long ways. Take a look, examine your car and see what it may need. Set the money aside, either in a separate account (much like the Christmas accounts) or simply into an envelope marked for your car. It will take discipline and habit, but it will pay off. It can be much better than tapping a credit card again and again. Let you local repair shop help your planning with realistic list of needs. ARTICLE 26 - APRIL 2011
WHAT'S UP DOC? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center When we take our ailing car into the shop to be checked out, there is usually a diagnostic charge. Exactly what is this? Is there a charge to tell me I have a flat tire? If all you do is read the scan tool then why is there a fee involved? Often shops charge for any and all examinations of the car, no matter how minor. Others charge only for legitimate time spent on the diagnosis. Which is proper? When technician’s time is spent to determine the problem, a fee should be charged. When you visit a doctor’s office, you seldom see the doctor, usually the assistant, but you do pay for that visit. Plus, if you’re referred to another doctor, you pay for that visit, too. A repair shop is much the same. Time and effort is spent to exam the patient (your car) and an evaluation is made. Do we and can we fix this, or does the patient go elsewhere? We have on occasion send cars to other shops (specialists) if we believe they can better serve you. And at times we charge for our time. But what does this diagnostic term really mean? After the initial exam or scan, there is usually a path or schematic to follow. Depending on the error code that is found this can be a few steps or dozens. The error code we pull from the scan only indicates that a sensor or reading is operating outside of a set parameters determined by the car builder. We may find a bad sensor or that a faulty part is causing this sensor to give bad (at times false) readings to one of the car’s computers. The initial problem found might be only the first of several. The sequence of the circuits must be followed to check for other issues. A good example is a cylinder misfire core. There are many causes for this. A spark plug might be bad, a coil, an injector and many other causes. The code only points to a particular cylinder or cylinders. We have to spend time and effort to determine the real problem. There is the real cause for the charge, plus charges for the actual repairs. At times the diagnostic charge will cover a portion of the repairs, often not. If part of the charge is for the tear down and removal of parts then some of the fee maybe waived. Much like removing the transmission to see that the clutch is bad; everything is already in pieces so no diag charges may apply. This is where having a good relationship with your repair shop comes into play. If you are a regular, they may adjust the fee. If they cannot properly diagnose the problem they may not charge you (unlike the doctor’s office). It is important to develop that relationship so that you know what to expect and to be willing to pay for legitimate diagnostic labors. ARTICLE 27 - JUNE 2011
ANOTHER LIGHT TO WATCH FOR? by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center If you do not have enough things to worry about on your car’s dash, there is another light to look for. Beginning in car model years 2005, there is a system to monitor the tire pressures with the resulting light on the dash. This is a federal program that came about as a result of the Ford and Firestone tire fiasco; yet another government effort to protect us. This covers all passenger cars and certain GVW pickups. Each car manufacturer uses slightly different means to sense the tire pressures, causing various problems and corrections; plus this is an ever changing technology. Please stay tuned. The more common sensor incorporates the valve stem with a transmitter. The car’s computer reads the signal and if pressures are out of range the light will be on. Other systems base the readings on variance in the speed of each wheel as the signal, like the antilock brake sensors. A few systems will display which tire is low and some even monitor the spare tire pressure. Each of these versions has its own problems and costs involved. The first step if the light is on is to check the condition of the tires. Is there a puncture, if so repair the tire and reset the light. The sensors that are the valve stem have several problem areas. They must seal against the wheel, the core must be clean and function properly. Most of these are made of aluminum and will corrode over time and be replaced, they can also break. Tiny batteries power these sensors and will fail in time, again the sensor must be replaced. The cost of the sensors run from $50-$200, plus in a few cases a cost to reset the computer. Some models reset while driving while some require a computer reset with specialized equipment. What do you do with these sensors? First, if the light comes on have the tires checked and repaired if needed. Do not assume the tires are inflated improperly. Have the light reset as needed. Second, when you buy new tires have the sensors serviced especially if they are the valve stem variety. Be aware that these have been extremely sensitive and finicky, with many false alarms. Also, plan on regular maintenance of these sensors and be prepared for some unexpected, additional costs. ARTICLE 28 - SEPTEMBER 2011
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ETIQUETTE by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center That blasted check engine light is on, it is on again and I have ignored it; what should I do? When see this too often, the light is ignored and assumed to be a previous error or something minor. First, never ignore nor assume what the light is signaling. There are too many reasons to mention here that can cause this light to come on. The light does indicate a malfunction of some sort. Some are relatively harmless and other times can indicate a severe problem. But, even the minor errors can have long term consequences if ignored. Second, how do you know when to be concerned and which problems must be dealt with now? Begin with having the car’s system scanned and diagnosed as needed. An error code often indicates a symptom or situation not necessarily a specific part failure or solution. Proper diagnostic steps should be taken to determine the exact problem. For example, an engine misfire code indicates that a cylinder or cylinders are not firing properly. This could be bad spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, injector or more. It is too expensive to simply “throw” parts at the problem. Proper diagnostics is a must. In situations where the car seems to be running ok, the long term effects of some of these errors can be substantial. A lean or rich air/fuel error can cause catalytic converter failures and even internal engine damage. These error codes are there for a reason, have the problem diagnosed and repaired as needed. Often error codes can lead to repairs that uncover other problems and other repairs are needed. A faulty injector can cause spark plugs to go bad but not discovered until other the injector is repaired and vice versa. Why did the spark plug foul in the first place? An error code for the engine temp sensor can hide a bad thermostat or other cooling system problems. Again, proper steps must be taken to solve the problem or problems. Be patient with the repair shop and allow them the time needed to diagnose and repair. Please recognize that these error codes come from readings that fall outside of parameters set by the car manufacturer and can take time to manifest in a part failure. What to do? Do not allow a check engine light to be ignored. Have the system scanned ASAP and at least determine if action should be taken now. If not, plan to have the problem diagnosed within a reasonable time. Understand that it does take time and effort to diagnose and repair such problems. Remember the old commercial slogan “pay me now or pay me later” and try to avoid severe long term damage to your car. ARTICLE 29 - DECEMBER 2011
LET'S TAKE A RIDE by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center We are often asked to diagnose and repair noises from cars. Just as often it seems, the noise is gone when it arrives at the shop. Or the tech hears a variety of noises, but not the one that concerns you. All cars after time do make some noises; some to be concerned with others not necessarily. How do we weed out the bad noises from the not so bad noises? What if it is a car that you do not drive, perhaps your spouse or children drive it. First, when you take the car in go for a ride with the tech that is going to work on it to point out the noise. That way you can let the tech know which noises you are conditioned to and maybe the tech will hear a noise that has been there a while but should be a concern. Second, try to recall if the noise occurs under certain conditions, such as first thing in the morning or when the air conditioner is on. If so, we need to duplicate that circumstance. Try to describe the noise a best as possible. Use descriptions that are meaningful to the tech. Terms like a metallic squeal, screech, vibration noise, rubbing, clicking, popping, etc. In addition, take a few minutes a remove or secure any loose objects as these are often a source of noise. We often advise car owners, in particular newer drivers, to take a ride without a radio or cell phone on to listen to the car. Start it up, drive it and shift it, apply the brakes with varying degrees of pressure, down shift; do all the things you normally do and then some. Drive with the windows down at various speeds and road surfaces to know how your car will typically sound. Do this on a regular basis. Parents, take this opportunity to inspect your child’s car and driving habits. Some noises are a result of how a car is driven. Do they pull their foot completely off the clutch and brake pedals or does the foot rest on the pedal. How do they accelerate--hot off the line or gradually? When they come to a stop, do they brake very lightly well in advance of the stop or do they brake abruptly? Do they shift a proper times? Too soon, late? Yes, have the stereo off and your cell phone too. And of course examine their driving habits in regards to safety. This can serve as a refresher course for parents and kids. It can also lead to good one on one time. Bottom line is know what sounds your car normally makes and take the time to recognize the odds sounds. Catch the noise before they turn into a serious issue. Do not hesitate to bring the car to the shop while the noise is happening even if you have no appointment. It is very hard to find the source if we do not hear the noise. Be prepared to leave the car if necessary. ARTICLE 30 - FEBRUARY 2012
SAY IT AGAIN SCAN TOOL by Sam Kimball of JJTracks Tire & Auto Center Exactly what does a scan tool tell a tech about the problems in a car? There are many misconceptions as to what it actually does. Basically the tool connects to the computer or computers of the car and retrieves data regarding error codes that are generated from various sensors or from other signals. The error code indicates that the readings are outside of a set of parameters established by the car manufacturer. That code tells the tech what sensor has either failed or received data that tripped the light. The tech then has to diagnose what caused the problem. The most frequent error code we see is for the emission system evap leak. A loose gas cap is the obvious culprit, but there are many other possible causes. Items like vacuum lines, solenoids, valves or more can be at fault. If the cap is tight and good then further diagnostics are needed to solve the problem. While this is not a serious fault, it is still a fault and causes the car to compensate for that reading. Another common error is for engine misfires. This indicates that a cylinder or cylinders are not firing for some reason and again, there a many possible causes. Spark plugs, wires, injectors, coil, or bad motor can cause this. Proper steps should be taken to get to the real cause. Oxygen sensor codes and catalytic efficiency errors are other faults we often see. With multiple oxygen sensors and other sensors that are ahead of the oxygen sensors in the work flow. Testing of the complete system is required before simply replacing parts. To scan the code with simple code readers, such as those at parts stores, does not tell the whole story. Too often these scanners do not read all the codes. Proper equipment will also provide freeze frame data that gives the tech vital information as to when the problem occurred. If a code is cleared (light turned off) then a tech has nothing to source for repairs. So, if you are having the car diagnosed, do not clear the codes. So when a check engine light or service soon light comes on, have the car checked by your repair shop as soon as possible. This is urgent if the light is flashing or car is running poorly. Having the car diagnosed ASAP can prevent further problems or damage. Plus, never assume the check engine light is on for a recently read code that was cleared. |
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